Living in Cambodia...

Royal wedding - King of Cambodia is not attending...

2011-04-23T14:30:00.004+07:00

Me next to the King of Cambodia in our private audience - unlike Wills and Kate

All the newspapers here in the UK yesterday had the shock news that the King of Cambodia had not replied to the invitation of Wills and Kate (aka future king & queen of England).

Now, having had communications with the Royal Palace in Cambodia I can appreciate exactly why the King hasn't replied. If you post some thing to him of course you will get no reply... In my experience you have to call ahead and then wait outside the gate for hours for the Captain/General to come and greet you and take the mail. Or, perhaps the Phnom Penh Post Office decided they liked the look of the invite and kept it for themselves... Goods often go walkies from there... Or perhaps he did reply but the Post Office kept his dollar for the stamp and binned the RSVP.

Joking aside, the Daily Mail and the Sun (two of the worst papers in the planet) have condemed the King for saying he is "busy". Quite frankly, I am sure he has far better things to be doing than flying across the world to a country that barely supports Cambodia and has very limited relations with it. I am surprised the HRHs got a "sorry he is busy with another engagement". Afterall it is far more likely in Cambodia just to get a "sorry cannot" without any explaination at all!

What a complete non-story. Afterall if so many people in the UK can't be bothered why on earth would a king of a developing nation on the other side of the world give a shit.

Anyay, the King can make time for me but not Wills and Kate...so satifying

Some photos from September 2010

2011-03-12T22:58:00.005+07:00

Here are a selection of photos from my last trip to Cambodia....

The children at the centre...

Sponsor daughter

A trip to Angkor Wat...

A trip to Bokor mountain...

And crab at Kep

The Village

Silk making...

The girls

2011-02-16T07:41:00.002+07:00

2010-10-01T15:51:00.001+07:00

I've now been in Nusa Lemboggan - a small island off the coast of Bali for 2 days. It is stunningly beautiful.....

Bali

2010-09-27T14:13:00.004+07:00

I've arrived in bali and have spent a few days in Ubud. Ubud has a reputation for being the epicentre of culture in Bali and I agree that it has a huge amount of culture and arts. However, it has seemingly become a bit of a tourist trap with coach loads of "culture thrill seekers!" arriving in hoards and descending on the villages which have merged together to form Ubud.

First impressions of Bali was that it was similar to Cambodia but with more order.... that was because I arrived in the dark! Impressions quickly changed. After driving for about an hour I arrived at my guesthouse. I was a little disappointed because I assumed that it would feel like I had travelled to a different part of Bali but the road was pretty much lined with shops/workshops and homes for the whole drive. I didn't sense there was any huge distance between Ubud and the airport. Totally different to Cambodia where if you were to drive at night you would certainly feel like you had made a significant journey if you were to travel to a provincial town!

My guesthouse was an excellent Internet find - "Narasoma". I was impressed with the room on the top floor which was furnished traditionally with a massive wooden carved bed. A front and back balcony meant I could watch both sunrise and sunset from the comfort of my own living space! I awoke early to enjoy the sunrise and wow! The landscape was beautiful with interesting buildings and the volcano in the distance! I was now impressed.

Next on the agenda was a rice field walk and after consulting with the guidebook I set off and immediately sensed I wasn't on the right track. I carried on regardless and for an hour and a half or so was enjoying the walk. I hen tried to cross a gorge to walk home on the other side. A friendly local pointed me in the right direction. Ummm I would have preferred to go back the way I knew but trusting him I set off.... and promptly got lost in a maze of rice in the hot, hot sun!

I was Ok and enjoying the adventure until a big, black snake decided to JUMP (really!) from his hiding position next to my foot into the small water irrigation system that was running alongside the path. I had no choice but to continue with my walk - now armed with a big stick. Then, I saw snake 2, 3, 4 and 5 and suddenly was not having a too happy a time! I then turned back and managed to find the way again. Strangely I stumbled across a painter and a small gallery so had a small chat and he suggested an alternative route - NO way! I was going back the way I knew.

OOOh snake, snake, lizard, spider, snake, lizard. I was looking forward to the town! After 3 hours of walking I arrived back. Phew! The rest of my time consisted of shopping and eating and browsing galleries.

I did pay a visit to the popular Monkey Forest Temple which I thought might be a bit of a tourist trap but it was actually entertaining with monkeys stealing tourists food and generally being a bit of a nightmare for those with monkey phobia! Particularly good was the monkey "swimming pool" which was a small pond which the monkeys were swimming in and jumping off statues onto each other and diving for fun!
Wet, unimpressed monkey - No zoom - you could point the camera right in their "unbothered" faces

In the evening I watched a traditional dance performance and was impressed. My point of reference was Cambodian Apsara dancing and there were certainly similarities - hand bent in strange ways, feet arched and looking as if the dances were on hot coals. However, the major difference was the expressions in these dancers' eyes and the dance which I observed which was a lot faster with sharper movements to Cambodian dance.

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With one day left in Ubud I decided to try another walk. I walked for 4 miles and then couldn't find the start of the rice field walk. Mindful of the previous experience I decided to just enjoy the walk on the road! My feeling was confirmed when I saw a massive lizard just walking in the grass (he was about 2 ft long). Even though I knew by this stage the black snakes were "no problem" I just didn't fancy stepping on one by mistake.

Luckily a luxury hotel provided me with juice (at a cost!) to prevent dehydration! After this and slightly more walking in back lanes I could no longer resist the cries of "transport" and got a lift back to the centre of the city!

A few unexplored areas later I was ready to hit the road and head to the mountain lodge on Bali's second largest mountain....

Airport

2010-09-24T11:48:00.002+07:00

Its not often that I cry in Cambodia. Yes, the dirty children and the land mine victims begging is distressing but after a period of time these become everyday scenes and you just get on with your life without such things playing on your mind too much (I guess it is just a survival thing - you can't change everything after all...).

However, today I was dropped off at the airport by a Cambodian - Canadian who escaped the Khmer Rouge. She now runs an NGO dealing with trafficking. As she dropped me off she alerted me to a group of girls, no older than 18 (looking like 14 year olds) who were all dressed in either pink or yellow T shirts. Their hair was short. Cambodian women treasure their long hair so this was odd.

She explained to me that they were all going to Kuala Lumpur to work in Malaysia as domestic workers. A closer inspection of the T shirts showed the name of the organisation sending them. They sat in a row waiting....

The next time I saw them was after check in and they were going up past passport control. In Phnom Penh the escalator goes past a glass wall to the outside of the airport. By this stage the families of the children in the bright coloured T shirts had gathered and they were waving. The children (because they were really children whatever their fake ages on their passports said) were crying, sobbing. It set me off too. They looked so innocent and petrified.

One in particular was sobbing on the plane. When it took off it was more of a howl. So very very sad. These girls, almost certainly, still lived at home, had never previously left the country and then all of a sudden they were being whisked away to work in a house (or something less desireous in due course) in a different country with a different language and culture - for very little money. They may only be an hour plane journey away from their homes but if you have no money and possibly someone else controlling your passport it is not that you can just return home when it all goes wrong.

When we arrived at Kuala Lumpur all I could do was smile at them a lot and hope that their final destination was a happy enough place for them.

Time to say goodbye...

2010-09-23T13:59:00.003+07:00

Its time to say goodbye to Cambodia again after nearly 3 weeks... $25 of Cambodian "lard/ice cream"(I'm not sure what it is made of...) cakes have been eaten by the 100 students at the Centre's school which can only mean Happy Birthday or goodbye. I had both goodbye in English and the Khmer for goodbye iced onto the cake to ensure there was no confusion .... A few more goodbyes and then it is off to Bali.

More Khmer princess shots....

2010-09-23T13:57:00.000+07:00

A before and after shot....

A kep sunset

2010-09-22T20:34:00.004+07:00

Sunsets in Kep are sometimes spectacular - On this occassion I'd give it a 6 out of 10 but still impressive with the ocean backdrop!

Angkor Wat

2010-09-21T16:13:00.003+07:00

Visiting Agkor Wat is supposed to be a once in a lifetime experience. I've now done it more times than I can count...! This time I took a group of Cambodian students who did the photo project with me - The idea was to get them to have some fun and take pictures.

In a while I'll put some pictures here! ....

There is not a lot to report - the tuk tuk drivers are still ripping people off in the city and there is a persistent use of child beggars in the city which is distressing.

That said I totally recommend Golden Banana guesthouse (www.golden-banana.com) which is just a haven of blissfulness from the heat of the city and the temples. It was a stark contrast to the guesthouse I ended up in with the Khmers - My hotel for the first two nights with them was very Cambodian. The TV was on, I had to fight to get a room with a window, the bedding was unattractive (not just in a fashion sense but in an ewwww-ish way) and the shower was ready to give you an electric shock as soon as you were naked enough to amuse the 20 or so tuk tuk drivers who appeared to sleep in the reception and were just waiting for a "comedy" incident like this to happen. I requested some additional bedding and luckily we escaped unhurt from the shower of death on all occasions it was used. Not bad at $10 a night for 4 people - but it was not where I was going to stay for 4 nights.

In contrast the Golden Banana staff were charming. The standard single room was actually large, the shower room attractive, the towels fluffy, the bed white and crisp..... the pools (two of them) refreshing - ahhh perfect. Suffice to say on the third day I did nothing but sit by the pool and eat.

After a lazy day I felt like I should do something so I took advantage of the free shuttle bus to the silk farm operated by a NGO Artisans d'Angkor - I have been to the Artisans d' Angkor gift shop and general show rooms before and they were worth a visit to see crafts such as stonework and metal work in action. It is an impressive organisation which seeks to give Cambodians opportunities via learning a traditional craft: http://www.artisansdangkor.com/

More pictures to follow...

The products are pricey - However, once I had seen the number of hours that goes into making a ream of silk and the work this organisation was doing, employing over 1,000 people it seemed more than right to get that nice silk scarf at only $24. Ok, Ok so it would have been $2 in the market but it would have been not nearly as nice and the organisation and its aim/mission is definitely worth supporting. I now have quite a collection of products from their shops....

Bokor/Kep - updated

2010-09-19T13:53:00.007+07:00

Next stop was Kep - specifically Kep Lodge (again). I was really looking forward to some fresh prawns and crab in the famous Kampot pepper in the KimLy shack by the sea. I wasn't disappointed. Still as as delicious and cheap as ever. Worth the 4 hour bus journey!

After a few days of aimlessly wandering/cycling around Kep I decided to face the bus back to Phnom Penh. This meant that I could splurge on a trip to Bokor Mountain in Kampot. I have been trying to get up Bokor mountain ever since I arrived in Cambodia. The last time I tried the bribe was just too big. Bokor is is an abandoned French town was built as a resort to offer an escape from the heat of the capital city.

he focal point of the hill station resort was the grand Bokor Palace Hotel & Casino - Other ruins also remain - shops, a post office, a church....

The tour began in the traditional Khmer way - late. I was picked up in a tuk tuk which i thought would take me from Kep to Kampot to meet the others on the tour. Wrong. The tuk tuk took me to a shop/waiting place. Here I had my most successful Khmer conversation (with a stranger) to date! I managed to explain where I was from my job and so forth and even manged to explain that I was not involved in the Khmer Rouge Tribunals as he was suggesting (as he worked out I was a lawyer...). It kept me amused for a while. Then a mini bus turned up - this took me to Kampot.... I then was asked to get on a motorbike which took me to the foot of Bokor Mountain where the rest of the group were waiting. 3 modes of transport in an hour with no explanation about what on earth was happening! Patience required

About 15 of us were then herded into trucks which took us part of the way up the hill into the jungle. We then faced an hour and a half of walking in the jungle spotting strange creatures - snakes, beetles and moneys mainly.

Apparently the company developing the site would not let us go up all the way in the trucks because the road was not developed enough in the middle...seemed strange but I have long learnt to accept Cambodian logic. Basically, we could ride in the truck to the middle - get out walk for an hour and half in the baking heat and then ride the rest of the way in the truck. Ummmm - don't ask!

The tour guide was not impressed with my walking footwear - basically slip on pumps (now ruined by the torrent of rain later in the day). I didn't point out that the Ranger accompanying us with the gun was wearing flip flops....

The guide had a particular need to tell the worlds longest jokes. Did I tell you the one about the tourists who wouldn't pay because they were called monkeys by their tuk tuk driver? He also explained his view on a variety of different plants - including what we know as rattan/wicker - apparently the Cambodians eat this. I would imagine it is not very tasty but that said Cambodians do tend to eat everything which they can pick off any plant or tree!

After an hour and a half of walking we were back in the trucks taking us to the summit. Surrounded in mist we suddenly became aware we were actually up high and it was cold (!) outside (!) in Cambodia (!).

As we twisted our way up the mountain the development was apparent. The site is owned by the government but is now under 99–year lease to the Sokimex Group who have undertaken to repair the road and redevelop the site, repairing the old hotel and casino along with new buildings (mainly as casino/hotel). The road was very new and the cuttings at the side of the road were lined with new turf and were being mowed! - a strange thing in Cambodia! As we approached the ghost town we could see the foundations of the new building by Sokimex - It will completely destroy the atmosphere of Bokor and transform it from an adventure to a ghost city to a easy ride to a bling/eyesore of a hotel.

At least for the time being the abandoned buildings have been untouched. The abandoned buildings are truly amazing - Ignoring the DANGER sign and exploring the casino was a great experience - old bathrooms; orange moss growing on the building; cracked windows - a real air of the colonial French. Free to explore the building, which was clearly liable to collapse in part at any time, - Open access, that is what is great about Cambodian health and safety!

There were a number of spiral staircases which had just fallen apart sticking to the main stairs it was clear that in its prime the building would have been an amazing place. The view at the back of the building was utterly breathtaking and one of the best I had seen in Cambodia - the coast line looked beautiful sweeping below us.

While we were munching on a lunch of rice and vegetables trying to look around the casino the guide was intent on telling us a potted history of everything Cambodian in a completely incoherent way. He didn't seem to convey to the tour group that the organisation who was building on the site and who was granted the ability to rip apart the national park which Bokor is situated in is closely related to the governing party here in Cambodia.... basically they are in it together - I filled in a few blanks for the group. I often find it really surprising how unaware people are of the political situation in this country even if they have lived here for a while.

....I then asked if I could make my way to the abandoned church which was about a 10 minute walk away.

I don't think the guide understood why I could possibly want to go to see the church in the pouring rain. But I guess I couldn't understand why the guide thought that we all wanted to hear his ramblings (which would have been good if they were focused on the history of Bokor rather than the whole of Cambodian history) for 30 minutes when we only had 2 hours to explore (after about 4 hours of travel just to get there). Cultural differences eh!

The group followed over to the church and all too soon we were herded back into the back of the truck for the trip to the spot where we had to walk for an hour and a half again. By this point I wasn't sure whether this walking part was actually due to the limitations of the road as we were told or because the tour guides wanted to make the trip longer or what..... Anyway, one woman (wearing appropriate footwear I should point out) slipped and sprained her ankle - She had to ride down, all the way, in the truck. Turns out driving on the middle portion of the road can be purchased for an additional $1.... ha!

By this stage (a) people were complaining about how tough the walk was (b) the guide was still asking me over and over where my "sneakers" were. I had to stop myself from loudly expressing that: (a) this is a JUNGLE walk PEOPLE - Did you people expect it to have a concrete path? (b) I do not own sensible shoes and (c) if I did I would not be wearing them out of the house even in the jungle and (d) I didn't fall over. HUH!

The day rounded off with a boat trip down the river in kampot and a moto ride back to Kep. Phew!

More photos to come...

Language barriers

2010-09-19T13:43:00.004+07:00

Since my last post I did eventually make it to the Cambodian village I have been to now about four times. Apparently, since my last visit: I got more beautiful, they missed me and my mother (who once visited). Suffice to say development is limited in a rural "hamlet" in Cambodia and other than the children growing over the past year or so there was not much change. "Granny" was especially pleased to see me but was disappointed my Khmer had not improved - I tried to explain that this was quite a difficult language to master from the UK.....

I also met a new family including an uncle of one of the Cambodian student's whose visit it was. He was about to start university but wanted to speak English with the foreign woman (that would be me) although he was painfully shy. It is difficult to come up with enough easy level questions in English. "What is your favourite colour?" might be a question which is easily understood but isn't very meaningful! Instead, after an hour or so I practiced my very basic Khmer on them and added a number of words to my vocab.

Later in the week I announced in my bad Khmer to my Cambodian students (luckily old enough to understanditwas a mistake) that I desired a threesome.... ummmmm they found that truely hilarious - and for once I understood something that Khmers found funny and found it quite amusing myself!

A journey to the Village

2010-09-13T20:10:00.005+07:00

On Saturday a few of the children from the Centre and I attempted to visit their home village in Kandal province. It usually takes about 90 minutes to reach the village - about 20 minutes off the main road to Kampot.

I say "attempted" because we didn't actually make it. We set off at 8.30am. A 9.30am on the highway the front left wheel (really) dropped off the mini van we were in and we were stranded. At least we were alive.

I was the responsible adult in this group (the driver was a newly qualified student at the centre.... about 17 years old.).... Ummmm not sure what to do about this one. I got out to consider the situation further. Basically the wheel bolt had come off and the wheel had then slid off the axle. Foolishly I picked the bolt up - Scalding HOT! OWWWWWWwwwww (I made good traditional Cambodian sound). Burnt three fingers and the skin went yellow - nice. Fearing that my fingerprints were burnt off forever I then used most of my drinking water to salvage them.
During this medical emergency time we arranged for a pick up to come from the centre with a jack for the van. We waited under a tree for 90 minutes. The jack and a (student) helper arrived.

A further 90 minutes passed with 2 of the older boys trying to fix the wheel. We were starting to get a little bored and very thirsty. Coconut man cycled down - Yippppeeeee. 8 coconuts provided a welcome distraction for 30 minutes or so.

The boys then decided we needed a pick up - I am still glad they took control at this point. The teacher will come with it - about 90 minutes later he arrives with about 15 other kids from the centre riding in the truck. He tries to fix it - for about 90 minutes.

By this time the kids are moody and so am I (but trying very hard). I have sun burn and have only had a coconut since 9.30am (but this stage it was 2pm). AGH! I am told that the minivan/bus will go on to the pick up. How? The pick up was essentially just a flat bad truck. It was no way of "picking up". The minivan was bigger than the pick up's flat bed! I am assured by this stage it will work. I cannot wait to see this.... are 15 kids going to pick up a tonne van?! How will it fit?! It only has three wheels after all?!

You see at this point I still have Cambodian faith - That is, even though it is totally impossible it can happen. Sometimes "impossible" things do happen here. The excitement of seeing a van "fly" keeps me going for 30 minutes. Then I realise the Cambodians have discovered it is impossible - It is not going to happen. Tonne vans cannot be lifted on to "pick up" trucks.

Disappointed by the failure of the van to fly I suddenly need water! The teacher announces he needs a spare part and I am determined to go and see civilisation again and more importantly buy water. Grabbing the most dehydrated student as a translator we were off in the back of another pick up truck (in the outside part naturally) off to find water.

Ahhhh sweet water. At this point I realise I resemble the red nosed reindeer. I also have very red arms. It is about 3pm.

The teacher then decides to get a mechanic - Seriously after 5 hours of looking and hitting the wheel with a spanner they then decide to get in the professional. Whodathought! Suddenly I wish I had taken control at 10am....

Unsurprisingly, the mechanic cannot fix it on the highway (we are in the middle of the road with only branches to stop vehicles from thundering into those in the middle of the road staring at the wheel problem) ... we have to head back leaving the mechanic to sort out taking the van to his workshop.

We get back to the children's centre after 4pm. Grabbing rice from the cook as quickly as we could we shoveled it in like we hadn't eaten for a week!

So "see you tomorrow at 8am" the kids said. "We try again". How could I say no? So off we went on Sunday to the village. Again....

Burnt and slightly crazy by the 6th hour....

Group work

2010-09-13T19:58:00.004+07:00

When you were 14 years old did you want to answer questions in class? How about share your most secret feelings with all of your class mates... No? Try Khmer counseling. Well, otherwise translated to me as a lesson in "talking abut yourself".

I arrived at the Children's centre thinking I would be seeing some sewing. No chance. Feelings were top of the agenda. Opening yourself up to the whole class of about 30 or so others. When I arrived the children were about half way through the session so I slipped in to watch. Their task was to talk abut 10 things that were listed on huge pieces of paper. Such as their feelings on: their family, sleep patterns, food, body, fears, future.... Not much really!!!

Like all good Khmer presentations each child gave their answers via a sound system and microphone! A fewwere laughing probably because they were afraid of crying as they spoke. Some of them cried -some of them sobbed about the way that they felt. Particularly about the abandonment of them by their family. There were a lot of red eyes in the audience as well as the speakers. Although it was in Khmer some of it was translated for me. It reminded me that despite the hard but seemingly happy exterior that many of the children have they do have deep rooted issues which remain with them as they strive for a better life at the Centre. A bit of therapy Khmer style.

Khmer Princess

2010-09-11T17:30:00.007+07:00

Here are my photos from the Cambodian Studio. On reflection it is probably not a look I will adpot everyday....

Disclaimer: I was positioned into thes poses - some are more Saturday Night Fever than Apsara.

Khmer photography...

2010-09-10T15:06:00.004+07:00

Ahhh a picture says a thousand words - yes, the pink one is me... Yesterday I took Sina and her carer to have their photo taken khmer style..... Final photos (photoshop-ed complete with Khmer background) to follow...

Some random pics from my camera...

2010-09-09T15:11:00.003+07:00

Looking hot - literally, baking.

I am relying on internet cafes so these are some random pictures from my camera! Yesterday was a particularly intense photo taking day the the children's centre - They all wanted about 10 pictures each. There are about 100 of them... Agggh!

Change!

2010-09-09T14:57:00.003+07:00

On my first day back I visited old haunts. I've been surprised by some of the "progress" in my old surrounds. In my old street the corner shack "selling all kind if everything" has been demolished. A Korean restaurant has opened up next to my old house and Pricewaterhouse Coopers is now in the office building at the end of the street!! Surely not! The Gold Tower is not 42 storeys tall yet but is getting there and towering above the city. Mango, the clothes shop that is - not the fruit, is advertising a new store on Sihanouk near to Lucky Supermarket(really? or is it some one who has got hold of a few old billboards?).

Elsewhere is now elsewhere on Golden street and Java now does the frozen Margarita in a proper glass (I liked the tumblers - huge measures). Threads, my favourite tailors seems to have been re branded - at least - and has a new name (needs investigation!).

At least I've managed to locate 2 old tuk tuk drivers - they say the corner shack has just relocated. I hope this isn't a Cambodian way of telling me it was shut by some "higher"authority. Our old security guy is also based at Java cafe so certainly a few familiar Cambodian faces out and about in the city.

"Safe" journey

2010-09-09T09:05:00.004+07:00

I'm on the move again towards Cambodia.... With over a month off between jobs I was off! The journey was great - the lack of alcohol due to Ramadan was tolerated by the fact I had 3 seats to myself all the way to Phnom Penh - on three different planes. Ahh they didn't sit me next to the "odd"person as usual! The Tune Hotel at Kuala Lumpur airport was surprisingly good and Tiger beer was fully available!

Having not got my e visa (earlier post) I got ready to brace the visa queue... I was first! Everyone else took an age to fill in the 3 forms (with the same information). My bag was the 3rd to come off the place - I wasn't ripped off my the visa people and did not need to bribe customs! I was off in my tuk tuk to town in less than 15 minutes. A personal best!

After checking into Goldie Hotel (good room with balcony) I decided that I needed a helmet for moto-ing about in safety. After a quick breakfast (The Shop on 240 - my favourite eggs.) I walked to the central market. After wandering aimlessly I managed to convey to a woman selling sun hats that yes, I did want a hat but of the hard variety for moto (motorbikes). Despite the Central market appearing to stock everything and all Cambodians now needing to have a helmet if they ride a moto she informed me that I would not get a moto helmet here but had to go to O Russei - The hard core/mother of all markets - further back into town.... I grabbed a cylco (after all no helmet = no moto - hope you are proud Mum) and headed to O Russei. Oh the heat... I started in the meat section of the market - entrails/heads and all of course, then made my way into shrimp world, cooking utensil land... tools... i fels I was getting closer - after all everything was starting to be made out of metal.... Agh! I ended up in plastic fruit mania - surrounded by plastic fruit (?!?) and glittery hairslides - things had gone badly wrong.

Electronics, dried fruit, spices, more rice than you thought existed in massive bags.... I gave up. I resisted going upstairs. If I went up the stairs I was assured it would take me 30 minutes to find the stairs to come down again. Time to ask. More miming - luckily I was rescued by a student who told me if I wanted a helmet I would need to go out of the market to the surrounding houses... Out into the baking sun... the cat call of the moto drivers. I entered into fungus land - massive mushrooms drying on the road - spices galore - I had never been to this side of the market square it seemed. Then like a mirage - motorbike street - all your moto needs in one handy location (if you know where it is that is).

Hot and sweaty I was in the first shop. I was in no mood for browsing. I found it - a silver helmet. At this point I needed to express my frustration in Khmer at these people. In extremely broken khmer I explained what i had been doing, where I had been walking and how good it was to find them. They seemed unmoved - Most likely they couldn't understand a) me or b) why I just hadn't gone to them straight away. It was motorbike street after all.

Helmet on, Moto taxi - I was off to lie down!....

Family travels

2010-08-29T15:11:00.005+07:00

Ahhh keeping the non work ethic it in the family... My "little" brother is jut about to start an exciting journey following the cricket around the globe including a trip to Cambodia - (no cricket there though...)

E Visa

2010-08-26T01:54:00.003+07:00

With just over a week to go until I arrive back in Cambodia I remembered the option to use the E Visa scheme....That way I thought I could avoid the ridiculous line of 15 officials and save the embarrassment of them flashing my passport photo to everyone else from the plane. once it is processed. However, now I've seen the guidance issued by the Cambodian government I've decided I'd prefer to brave the queue!

Friends?!

2010-08-02T00:59:00.004+07:00

Ahh it appears Cambodia's PM has just over 2,500 friends on Facebook.... ummmm

Tuk Tuk Sir?!

2010-07-25T15:07:00.003+07:00

I'm planning a trip to Cambodia in September to catch up with people there and am thinking about another return trip to Siem Reap. I have a favourite tuk tuk guy there - Sambo. I've just found his business card. I'd wholly recommend him if you are in Siem Reap...

And while I am on the subject - I'd also recommend Dara in Phnom Penh. He usually hangs out in BKK1. His English isn't great so if you are staying at a guest house get them to call and explain what you want. Once you have made face to face contact he can easily understand enough to come back at the right time/the next day etc....

World Cup madness

2010-06-26T23:14:00.005+07:00

It seems The PM of Cambodia is focusing on some important issues that concern the people of his country....

"In a speech on Thursday marking the inauguration of Cambodia’s first overpass, the premier told the audience that he was using his mobile phone to follow matches.

He also had some kind words for the English squad, especially striker Wayne Rooney. After congratulating UK ambassador Andrew Mace on the fact that England has made it into the round of 16, he said: “I also want to send this message through the ambassador that I admire Wayne Rooney. I admire him for his kick technique.”He added: “I wish that England will pass through to the last group of eight.”

[quote from the Phnom Penh Post]

Great.
If only it was the World "sigh" (AKA "keepie uppie") Cup - Cambodia would be in the top 4 as it seems to be the nation's sport of choice

OK its not Cambodia....

2010-06-14T03:40:00.004+07:00

On my last trip I didn't go back to Cambodia but instead went to find family in Oregon USA... Meeting my grandmother's sister who my gran had lost contact with just after WWII. I love this picture of my great aunt looking at one of her old family photos back from her time in Ireland.

The next holiday will be asia as I am missing the sights and sounds!....

Election fever

2010-04-25T15:01:00.005+07:00

With election fever hotting up in the UK I have been reminded of the elections which took place in Cambodia while I was based there.

People in the UK have been very angry recently abut corruption of politicians making false expenses claims. They have lost all faith in the system, some think they will not bother to vote because of this. The thing is, such activities of the UK government are, well, "small fry" when compared to the problems of developing countries like Cambodia. People in the UK also talk about not voting because their vote doesn't make a difference. Frankly, they can't be bothered. This all makes me cross because it shows a total disregard for the privilege of having vote in a system that is democratic enough (all things considered that is- I know there are arguments relating to the electoral system etc). You can't whinge about the elected if you haven't voted.

In Cambodia you can't even whinge about it if you have voted.... In Cambodia, people do tend to vote - Their finger dipped in black ink shows a vote has been cast. They generally vote for one political party for all sorts of reasons but not generally because of choice or the fact that they represent that person's views. It is more likley that they don't know any different, they don't realise there is a choice, they are told who to vote for by the leader of their village, they feel threatened or simply because they have been given a baseball cap or some small sum of money by that party. For example, in the recent Cambodian election one woman, I am aware of, was told by her village leader not to vote because she was too old and her opinions shouldn't count.

Perhaps if we told people in the UK that they couldn't vote they might become a bit more bothered.

There are alternative parties to the party in power in Cambodia. Like The Sam Rainsy Party.

He hasn't had it easy:

He sent himself to France in 2005 in self exile, following various threats made by the government to remove his parliamentary immunity - Which they did do, to him and 2 other members of the Party (one of which was were put in Cambodian military prison...)

On January 27, 2010, a provincial court convicted Rainsy and two villagers on charges of racial incitement and destroying demarcation posts on Cambodia's border with Vietnam. Human Rights Watch have said that the trial did not meet international standards for a fair trial.

The Government has repeatedly brought politically motivated cases against Rainsy in recent years.
His immunity as a member of parliament was lifted in February 2009 after the PM filed a criminal defamation complaint against him for accusing the PM of corruption. His party paid a US$2,500 fine.
Rainsy still faces a defamation complaint filed in 2009 by the Phnom Penh municipal governor after Rainsy allegedly said in a speech in May that the governor was involved in vote-buying.
From the time he created his political party in 1995, Rainsy has been subject to assassination attempts, threats, intimidation, criminal cases, and civil court cases. On March 30, 1997, a grenade attack on a political rally he was addressing killed at least 16 people and wounded 150. The PM's bodyguard unit has been implicated in the attack.

So its not easy being the opposition in Cambodia. Perhaps its just that party... errr well no...

In 1993, Funcinpec (another large Party - in the yellow T shirts above) won the general election, but the PM refused to give up power and a ruling partnership was agreed between the two leaders. In July 1997, the PM was behind a violent coup which ousted the then leader, Prince Norodom Ranariddh, and forced him to leave the country. In his absence, Prince Ranariddh was found guilty of arms smuggling, but he was pardoned by the king and returned to Cambodia shortly afterwards. In the 1998 elections, Funcinpec was heavily defeated by the CPP, but allegations of electoral fraud triggered violent protests.

So register to vote! Wherever you are - At least you can....

Mondulkiri province

2010-04-12T01:19:00.001+07:00

After a busy couple of days in the city it was time to get some fresh air. Mondulkiri is in the wild east of Cambodia. An isolated place of waterfalls and jungle. I hadn't been there before and looked forward to exploring new territory.

Setting off from Phnom Penh at 6.30am, as the cyclos headed to market along the riverside, in a Cambodian private taxi was a real luxury - Only stopping once for a Caltex snack break (with the SUVs).... For some reason Cambodia hasn't put into practice the concept of a single bus stop in a village or town. A bus seems to stop in even the smallest of villages no less than about 5 or 6 times to pick up people/chicken/parcels etc who are standing less than 20 metres apart. A journey time of about 6 hours must have been record breaking (think 12 hour + for a bus journey).

As I made my way further and further into the wilderness the road turned into red dust and the scenery green. However, at some points the jungle near to the road had been reduced to nothing (more on this later...). Cambodia, it has been reported is the third worst country in the world in respect of illegal deforestation and Mondulkiri has been experiencing rapid deforestation in recent years from illegal logging and land grabbing - but that is a whole different story.... The province was still full of natural beauty with its mountains rich and green. One thing that never fails to impress is the Cambodian sky with its excellent clouds! The red dust swirling across the green of the countryside gives the trees by the roads a rusty look. Brown, green and blue.

I can recommend the Nature Lodge (an eco lodge) as a place to stay in Mondulkiri - or even as a place to stay in Cambodia. There isn't exactly a lot of competition in the provincial main town of Sen Monorom (I spotted about 2 whole other bars) but it does an excellent job in any event. The location is quite a walk out of town (get a moto!) but that is certainly part of the charm of the place.

Individual huts have private outdoor bathrooms with sweeping views and peace and quiet. The communal area was a perfect place to relax with an Ankgor beer and a good book! http://www.naturelodgecambodia.com/

Itching to explore a walk into town seemed like a good option to take in the scenery (and the baking heat). The town was interesting. I had been to Ratanakiri (the neighbouring province) before) - the two places are described in travel books in a similar tone. The way in which you were immediately coated in red dust in both provinces was very similar but, apart from that, Sen Monorom seemed much quieter and much more isolated.

The high street was a red dust track and everything surrounding it was also covered in red dust. A market with standard Cambodian wares (with a wedding tent pitched right outside as normal...) was hidden away in a back street. That was about it.

Happening high street (below and above)

The tourist information office (above) - situated on the side of the "runway" wasn't buzzing either (i.e: closed). Luckily the plan I had in mind did not focus upon urban life. Rather the plan was to get on an elephant and trek through the jungle....

Elephants in Cambodia are supposed to be subject to rules regarding their working time. 4 hours a day, 5 days a week. Sounds like a good deal to me. Our elephant driver (known as a mahout) was a woman and she handled the elephant confidently and with ease.

Our mahout was not Khmer but part of an ethnic group known as Phnong. In fact 80 percent of the Mondulkiri's population is made up of tribal minorities. Phnong are the most common ethnic group in the province and are animists rather than Buddhists. A quick google search of Phnong will reveal an interesting story about Cambodia's jungle child. A Phnong child who went missing in the jungle only to supposedly return many years later as a feral child. http://onwardoverland.com/articles/junglegirl.html

The Phnong make their living from the land. In fact they grow rice and coffee on spots of land that have been reclaimed from the jungle by slash and burn agricultural techniques. The Phnong practice of slash and burn is, as you might imagine, fairly labour intensive. The Phnong use one site for up to five years before moving to a new location.

The Phnong experience a number of months of the year where the food they have grown runs out. During this time (up to say, 5 months) they forage in the jungle for food and fish. A current problem relating to land grabbing is that large amounts of land have been logged, sold or otherwise removed from the ownership of the Phnong community. Clearly if they gave no land then their traditional values will start to be eroded as they will not have access to the resources which sustain them.

My mahout guided the elephant through the dense jungle, the cashew nut farm (elephant's favourite it seems given the amount he was eating) and small rivers to reach my destination. An isolated waterfall and "picnic" spot.

Cashew fruit - elephant treats and also a human Cambodian favourite too! Only eat the fruit (not the nut without it being treated), exceptionally juicy to touch but dry and powdery to taste - odd.

Arrival at a waterfall can only mean one thing in Cambodia - fully clothed swimming! I got straight in - only removing my shoes, much to the pleasure of the children of the mahout who had suddenly appeared seemingly from nowhere - they also jumped in.

Following the swim we shared the joy of Vaseline by the waterside and then.... because they loved that so much (they were taking massive dollops and coating themselves in it) I got out the sun cream....

Without prompt they were soon sloshing it all over themselves and asking for more and more!

The mahout didn't speak any English and my Khmer was not up to scratch but after a lot of miming we ended up having a sleep in her traditional house - Only to be woken up about an hour later by the gentle ringing of a cow bell and a cow trying to get onto the house! (chased away).

During this time the elephant had been left to return to the jungle (in accordance with elephant laws) and we had to find it and catch it - all of a sudden there it was. Breaking trees and having a lazy. Once it was caught, basically the mahout walked up to it and got on it (simple!) it was taken for his bath...

I wonder at what point do you realise that you have tamed a wild elephant enough to a) climb on it and b) give it a good scrub in the river? The elephant was loving clearly loving it - getting right under the water and so you could only see his trunk. Thankfully the Phnong are known for their excellent elephant handling abilities. They catch young elephants in the wild with ropes and then separate them from the herd - Not without risk! The elephant eventually becomes domesticated and then is used to carry heavy loads and help with logging (in fact a simple noise from the mahout on my journey prompted the elephant to clear any trees in its path with its trunk with exceptional ease - like we could snap a twig!).

Once bathed the elephant had to be dressed again, first the matting to stop (I presume) the bamboo cage (for us to sit in) from rubbing the elephant and then the cage - kept on by another piece of bamboo!

Then a trek back through the jungle - The mahout also sat her child on the elephant's neck and the girl, who could not have been more than 7 year old, was clearly used to it and fearless! In fact in this photo she had fallen asleep! - I was seriously impressed by the "superwoman" mahout - Guide an elephant through a jungle using your feet as the steering wheels whilst holding your sleeping child....easy!

Towards the end of the journey, as we came towards the Phnong village, the Phnong slash and burn agricultural practice became prevalent.

Finally returning to the village about 8 hours later feeling much sorer after being cramped in the little bamboo basket! The above house is a traditional Phnong house - 15 people live in here - inside there are basically two raised platforms on either side of the house so sleeping, cooking, eating - everything.

Final stop for the elephant....

Back in "civilisation" it was necessary to pay a visit to Bananas! - The guide book said this was the most happening place in town - If you are in the area drop in. Its run in the house of the proprietor who is a Dutch woman. Two British Bulldogs will greet you as you walk through the path in the garden to reach the house/restaurant and the solitary table by the tiny river. She3 had bo other guestsbut the food was some of the most delicious western food I have had in Cambodia.

The runway

Mondulkiri is sometimes called the Switzerland of Cambodia - I struggled to see the comparison myself. The reason, I think, are the lakes which the town has. For the remainder of my time the weather became cold and very windy. This meant walking around exploring the local area on foot was a possibility - Lakes, temples and finally the runway - Yes, it has no tarmac. It’s just dust!

School

2010-04-02T16:03:00.009+07:00

The Cambodian education system leaves a lot to be desired. Bribery, cheating and lack of funding are just some of the problems. For instance, teachers are paid an absolute mockery of a salary (even by Cambodian standards) as they are paid about $30-$50 a month (my old moto taxi driver was a teacher but decided to move to Phnom Penh to moto taxi instead as it paid more!). Children also only go to school for half a day to cope with the fact that there are so many children in Cambodia to be educated.

Cambodian teaching staff are generally badly qualified or corrupt. Hardly surprising when you consider the salary. In fact most (if not all) of the teachers in the state system charge their children for attendance within the class. If the children don't pay the fee then they will "fail" papers or simply be ignored. Clearly this stops poorer children from attending school. Sometimes teachers will not teach the national curriculum during school hours - They will teach it after school in private fee paying classes - so unless you pay you won't have the opportunity to learn the material for the exams and even then, if you want to pass an exam, you have to pay. Of course wealthy parents must love this. Your child can be whatever it wants to be - and get the grades - so long as the price is right. The Khmer Rouge murdered anyone who was educated and so clearly it is going to take a while for the country to build its education system up again but given that we are now thirty or so years on from the Khmer Rouge progress is clearly exceptionally slow.

What is very pleasing is when a person has the initiative to build a school based on true values, honesty and treats its staff appropriately. This is what one of the centres for disadvantaged children has done in the heart of Phnom Penh.

Although it is still at the early stages of development the school has been set up and the children who live at the centre (who are in grades 1-6) have been removed from the state education system and are now studying with real achievements.

The classrooms

The school is training its teachers not to teach in the old methods employed by the state schools but in more modern ways - through games, field trips, interactive learning etc. The classrooms are decorated and the environment is a fun (and safe) place for the children to learn and they are at school all day giving them a real chance to think about what they are learning and spend more time on more difficult concepts.

The children's centre is presently in the process of constructing a secondary school as well so that the older children (who are still in state school) can be educated in this way too.

Lunch and playtime

Returning to Phnom Penh

2010-04-01T01:04:00.011+07:00

First impressions of Cambodia I always find amusing. Upon landing back on familiar turf I was quickly entertained by the usual, but still extraordinary, number of people necessary to process the tourist visa.

First, there is always a man just pointing (at nothing really) and generally getting in the way. Then the first booth - give the man your passport, photo and visa form... He may try and get a quick dollar or two if you haven't got a photo (or may also try anyway if you have remembered your a photo but look gullible enough to give it to him anyway) ... Then move on to the long desk where no less than 8 people sit in a row stamping and writing on your passport... Wait in a huddle with everyone else at the end of the long desk until the 10th, or so guy tries to call your name and flashes your terrible passport photo to the crowd.

Move to the immigration desk, hand in your passport with the brand new visa and the other form. Have picture taken (because even if you gave one in about 15 minutes ago its probably already in the bin).

Move on to the uninterested customs guys and give in the customs form and then wooossshhh you are in the dirt and baking heat and tuk tuks ahoy to whisk you to town. Be on your toes or you will experience corruption before you even leave the airport!

STAY - A fantastic place to base yourself placed in a perfect spot right by the independence monument.

After negotiating the hoard of visa officials it was time to make myself at home again in Phnom Penh - If only for a week or so. Luckily this was pretty easy to do thanks to my friends at Knyay.

Knyay (it means ginger in Khmer) is a fantastic restaurant which serves a perfect range of Khmer food which has been refined for western tastes (even serving vegan food) and it is shortly due to open a unique guest room called STAY. The concept of STAY is the luxury "home from home experience". The one apartment guest accommodation is located right next door to the restaurant (great for a handy dinner or just pudding or just drinks...!). The STAY experience is yet to open to the public (!) but I was invited to try it out.

Although not yet finished I can thoroughly recommend staying there when it does open soon. The decor is faultless and the peace and quiet (which in PP is a huge rarity) is fantastic. The bathroom is modern and very unique with its brushed concrete walls and floor, a huge back lit mirror and an amazing "rain" shower. The living space very large with beautiful features both old (like the traditional khmer floor tiles and the retro air vents) and new (the lightboxes which echo the 1960s architecture)... ahhh. Right near to my old house (by the independence monument) too so perfect location!!

Jet lagged I quickly made my way to one of my favourite markets - O'Russei - for some truly intense heat and to immerse myself straight into Cambodian chaos. Part of the market's charm is the way in which you can get utterly lost for hours on the upper floors never quite managing to find your way out without a serious challenge.

Dehydration struck and so after negotiating over some bits and pieces I had to get out. Part of a Cambodia experience should be for all the cyclo ride - if only to support the mainly ancient men who sleep and live in their cyclos and who are extremely poor by most standards. I didn't really use cyclos when living in PP but they are always around the markets and given that I didn't have a moto helmet and wasn't prepared to risk a non-insured medical emergency it seemed like a good solution to get me to street 240 ASAP for a drink in one of my favourite haunts (basically an expat street of boutiques and bars).

Given the dwindling numbers and the poverty of the cyclo drivers (small documentary by the BBC on this here http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/8549527.stm) I'd recommend a ride -you certainly experience the traffic chaos from a new angle....

Fishy story

2010-03-10T20:10:00.002+07:00

What!!!!! An entry from this month's Police Blotter in the Phnom Penh Post. I especially love the last line!

Not so remote....

2010-03-04T05:25:00.006+07:00

Its controversial but the more I know it the more I don't like Siem Reap (shock horror!). Its full of people who just want to "do" the temples and get out of Cambodia ASAP and its soooo touristy (of course). Its just not very real. Its also the only place I have ever got seriously food poisoned in Cambodia. That said I love (a) the guest house that I have stayed in a few times there [name be be confirmed!] , (b) the cakes from the Blue Pumpkin (c) the happy ranch horse centre - yeehaaa! and (d) a particular tuk tuk guy called Sambo...so it has its ups.

Anyway, this week on my daily commute to work, reading the free "newspaper" which is the "Metro" I came across a 1 inch by 1 inch story that said that Korea was going to upgrade the roads around the Angkor Wat complex.... Having done a quick search to look for more on this it appears to have got the same amount of column inches in the Phnom Penh Post. Clearly not a massive news story then. However, its interesting that it is Korea who are providing the cash - over $9m in fact. I can' say I've ever personally noticed the roads being that awful and quite like the fact that the more remote temples are ... well, remote(!) but there again I have not been in a large coach shipping Koreans left right and centre and those small roads must be terribly inconvenient when you have an entire temple complex to see in 6 hours.... They are banning trucks though which is good. However, what about banning large coaches with large grops wielding dangerous (yet somehow attractive) umbrellas?!

The alternative would then of course be one of the electric carts so you can be shipped around in Disney-like fashion.

Call me "temple snob" but ..... Terrible. Why oh why......

The Metro also did a centre piece on the delights of Cambodia last month - All very odd to be on the train going into the office reading an article on this fantastically exotic holiday I should be having in familiar haunts like Kep or even Siem Reap....

http://www.metro.co.uk/travel/814933-cambodia-has-an-eco-project-with-bite

should take you to the full article.

A rubbish job?

2010-02-07T23:10:00.014+07:00

In the western world recycling is a very middle-class (supposedly) organised affair. Separate your glass from your paper, from you tins from your cardboard. Certain types of cardboard are not (you are told) suitable for recycling. Organised days of the week for cardboard and other recyclables...

In Cambodia and also a great many other developing countries the whole thing is entirely different. In fact there is a "pecking order" for rubbish picking because recyclables are worth cash... The fact is that recycling in Cambodia is no middle class ecowarrior event - Rather a means of supplementing income or actually making a living. How can you expect your rubbish to be handled in Phonm Penh?

1. First, if you have one your housekeeper will take the pickings. [I didn't have a housekeeper so first pick of the rubbish was...]

2. The security guy who guards your apartment. Once I got wise to the fact that our guys were picking through our rubbish for the best bits I started separating out the best bits for them(plastic bottles, glass and tins) from our rubbish and started handing it over to our security guard direct....

Sweeping - only dust remained in the bin on most days...

3. The moto men might have a look if they have a moment and if they think it will be worth their while...

4. Then the people who trawl the streets going through the bins... (they also collect from the people at 1,2 and 3 above by paying them for their finds)

4. Then the rubbish truck men who would have a good look at any rubbish before throwing the rest in to the truck.... They have special bags for their own personal finds attached to the side of the truck. I guess it is a "perk" of the job.

5. Then, the people who live on the dump. They scavenge through the rest of the rubbish hoping to find recyclables.

6. Finally, the rubbish is then sold to middlemen on the entrance to the dump - they then sell it to recycling companies for profit. A kilo of plastic is worth about 15p and a kilo of of iron or a glass bottle goes for 1.5p.....

The rubbish dump in PP has now closed. You'd think this would be a good thing - No people should be made to work tramping through other people's rubbish. However, this has meant that some of the poorest people are now even poorer and have no source of income. The new dump is going to be a closed site... when the fence is put up that is....

Pyjama people

2010-01-30T03:34:00.006+07:00

In Cambodia, your pyjamas are the ultimate height of fashion. You can wear them everywhere and anywhere. Orange ones with penguins, yellow ones with Mickey Mouse, blue ones with polar bears, cherries or teddies... the brighter and more patterned the better. I used to wonder whether the women who rode elegantly around on the back of moto taxis or strutted their stuff in the market place knew what they were wearing. I wondered for a while if I should mention that they were not putting on a co-ordinating two piece trouser/blouse but actually something we consider only suitable for cold nights (alone).

After a while though I did discover that yes, they did know... but what did it matter? In Cambodia wearing pyjamas out is the done thing. They are a stylish outfit saved only for going out. Why would you wear them in bed? They are smart... its too hot... etc etc For them to be a practical purchase, the only place you can wear them is out. Besides how will people in general admire your latest PJ set if you are just wearing them to bed. What a WASTE!....

It seems the women of Cardiff (being the capital of Wales in the UK for international readers) have now caught on to the concept of bed wear in the outside world.... Today it has been reported that the supermarket giant, Tesco, has banned women entering its store in Cardiff who are wearing their PJs. So many young women they say are shopping in their PJs it has become too much for some people. The women say they are a perfect solution when they don't have time to sort themselves out in the morning before taking the kids to school etc.

“I’ve got lovely pairs of pyjamas, with bears and penguins on them. I’ve worn my best ones today, just so I look tidy,” said Ms Carmody of Cardiff, who had chosen PJs when trying to to “pop in for a pack of fags”. She also commented that if she was doing her "big shop" she would have got fully dressed (obviously).

It seems these cultures are not miles apart.... or are they? In Cardiff, the women are, it seems, not generally trying to make an appearance (or be a style guru) when giving their PJs an outing - it's more a case of not being bothered after they have rolled out of bed. In contrast, in Cambodia PJs are for a special trip and, despite laughing at the fact that women there are parading around in the baking heat covered in polar bears, somehow it works far better for these women than those pushing their trolleys around Tesco in Wales. There is an element of pride in the Cambodians' outfit. It is nothing to do with being too "busy" or "lazy" to find some clothes. For some, wearing PJs may have to do with cost, cheaper than traditional Cambodian silk wear. However, in the market, western jimjams do seem to be a substantial investment at around $10-16 a go... (they are multi-function use after all).

Perhaps it is because the women of Cardiff are not wearing the right footwear with their PJs (furry slippers vs plastic high heels and matching earrings) or perhaps it is because their tops are not matching their bottoms the Tesco managers have got so distressed?!

Street life

2009-12-30T17:28:00.011+07:00

Its the season of goodwill and giving and so a post about a time when giving is not right seems appropriate (in my opinion)!

Cambodia is a difficult country. I am under no illusion that when visiting on holiday or even for a longer period of time it is so easy to give a dollar here and there and you suddenly feel like you have made a real difference. This is where I plead with you to STOP! and think about the problem.

Yes, of course, it is true that Cambodia does not have a welfare system and some guidebooks may encourage you (irresponsibly) to think about this aspect of society and dig deep into your pockets. Yes, giving 1000 riel (about 25 US cents) might give you a warm fuzzy feeling that a Cambodian family are going to be eating well that night. Yes, you can afford to do it... so why is it so wrong or unhelpful?

Firstly, from an economic perspective, looking at the average daily national wage, which is around $1 (a factory worker might earn $60 a month, a waitress in an expensive western restaurant $70.... and these wages are the middle class salaries) giving even just a dollar to someone who is doing nothing at all is a bit of a punch in the face to anyone who is doing a job. By all means give a nice big tip to your tourist tuk tuk or waitress or the maid who made your hotel room bed instead.

Secondly, from a different perspective, people are put on the streets to beg by people engaged in human trafficking. Yes - really.

There is a baby who is passed from woman to woman on the riverside so that each woman can do their "shift" with the miserable looking baby to get more money from the gullible tourists. The baby is a hired helper! If you are going to give money to a woman because she has the miserable baby then that baby will become more desired by other women and so will suffer a childhood being carted around the riverside by various women to generate more funds. If the baby doesn't generate money (because you ignore it) the baby will be "out of a job" and this is no bad thing. Having a job when you can't yet walk or speak is a GOOD thing! Now there will be some of you still wondering - that if they do not give some cash the woman with the miserable baby - how will the baby ever get un-miserable and how will it eat? go to school? get a better life? etc. The answer is above, the baby is not getting the money. None of it. The money is going to the baby's mother/owner (do you think she ("Pimp") will be giving the baby a cut of the profits....nah) and the woman who hired the baby (she paid to use the baby so why is she going to care - The more awful it looks to her the better - The more terrible, the more $$$).

This is just an example because once the baby can walk it will be put out on the streets to do the begging by itself - Returning its profits to the person it belongs to, not keeping the money for itself. This person may be its mother or it may be someone who has purchased it to beg for it. A kind of slave trade. If you don't give cash then the mother won't have a need to put the child on the street (what would be the point?) and the "slave trade" will die out. It gets worse, some of the begging "slaves" are drugged by their Pimp to make them look even more pitiful. One particular drug makes people loose all sensations in their legs and so it looks as though they have a disability and can't walk at all....

Ahhh so a child with those big brown eyes you fell for finally gets a few riel from you. It is his or hers to keep because unusually they are not a slave beggar and they have run away from "home"... Yeah! What will they spend it on? You hope they will run off to go to school, buy a pen or two and eat a nice wholesome meal. Wrong! More than likely that money will go on glue. Street children in Cambodia have a huge problem with glue sniffing. Its such a big problem that adults have set up places where children can go and buy a small plastic bag with a bit of glue in it to get their fix. These adults have realised that the children are desperate and can't get enough money together to but a whole tube of glue so they "so kindly" have set up convenience stands with just enough glue to get a fix. Just like you were kind enough to give that riel.

Ok! Ok, the above is the worst case scenario - Some adults and children do need your help genuinely..... but a far better way to help is to: a) visit NGO craft shops (more expensive but better quality and you are helping those people, often disadvantaged in some way, who make the products earn a wage) b) visit Friends for a meal (just by the national museum - the food is fantastic tapas) The staff are all ex street kids who have been given a break c) use child safe tuk tuks and moto drivers (look for the child safe logo) d) visit the child safe drop in centre opposite Friends.

This is just a starter setting out why it is never the season of goodwill to give a dollar here and there. Its a controversial subject.... Having said all of the above you have to use common sense. I used to give a few riel every now and then or some food to an old, old woman who would sit on our road by my house. But I did not live in a tourist area, she was not trying to make a fast buck, she never asked anyone for money, she was always happy to get food instead, the moto men and other Cambodian neighbours gave her small amounts too....

Christmas!

2009-12-23T15:38:00.001+07:00

In the run up to Christmas its nice to get Christmas cards Cambodian style!

Post Office Phnom Penh vs Royal Mail

2009-12-12T17:57:00.004+07:00

I've had lots of people sharing their experience of the Phnom Penh Post Office since my first blog about it. My experience of the "service" is not unusual.

Recently a Cambodian student, who stayed with us in the UK in the summer, asked us to bring back some books from Cambodia after our holiday and post them from the UK to Italy where he has started studying. Of course - happy to pop them in the post via Royal Mail for a whopping sum of money.... The idea being that it was far "safer" to post them from the UK.

Those books were posted several months ago now... still no sight of them at the Italian end. Its rather ironic that my $13 from the PP post office resulted in delivery (and probably fed a family for a couple of days due to the overcharge) and made it across the world whereas here, well, Royal Mail resulted in complete postal failure. Try explaining that to the poor guy waiting for his books!!!!

CCH Roadshow

2009-11-23T03:36:00.006+07:00

These are two of the many pictures I took at one of the CCH roadshows - A educational show where children teach others about social issues such as HIV, drug abuse and human trafficking. One of the students from the children's centre has documented the roadshow in pictures and written the accompanying text:
http://www.realebooks.com/index.php/realebooks/results/630a4cd9319c29ee71dee5c06d414598/
(Click on the virtual book to scroll through.)

Cambodian Crocs

2009-11-19T21:26:00.003+07:00

When I first arrived in Phnom Penh and was looking for a "different" day out I went to Phnom Tamao wildlife sanctuary. You can read about the original trip here: http://michelles-in-cambodia.blogspot.com/2008/03/friday-and-saturday.html I thought the place was well run given its limited funds.

That zoo made the news this week as DNA tests done by conservationists have discovered that one of the world's most endangered crocodile species, the Siamese crocodile lives in the moats at Phnom Tamao! The Siamese crocodile is pretty much extinct (and in fact was declared extinct in 1992). It is listed as critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. There are only about 250 left in the wild and most of those are in Cambodia in the Cardamom Mountains.

The crocs in zoo are now going to be bred to increase the population to 450. Once there are 500 they will be moved off the critically endangered list. It won't be easy for any released crocs as although poaching is now rare planned hydroelectric dams could interfere with the crocodiles' habitat.

... Given that even the experts needed a DNA test to tell unsurprisingly I'm not sure if this photo I took is of the Siamese crocodile

International relations

2009-11-13T06:10:00.004+07:00

Relations between Cambodia and Thailand have been strained for some time....not just recently but since Cambodia's independence in the 1950s and even before that. To put it mildly Cambodian people generally are very unsympathetic to Thais (or Vietnamese for that matter but that is a different story) so they love a story to stir up the tension.

Recently it was the dispute concerning 900 year old Preah Vihear temple on the border. The International Court of Justice in 1962 awarded the temple to Cambodia. The Thais didn't like that too much but what really twisted the knife was the fact that in July 2008 Unesco listed Preah Vihear as a World Heritage Site. So they decided to send troops into the area....

With the Cambodians thinking was that the Thai's are after their temple/land and the Thais already fighting with their pride over the whole affair it isn't really surprising that the Cambodian army is also dispatched and the Cambodian PM calls the 4km square area a "life and death battle zone" - two Cambodians soldiers sadly died during a gun-battle.

Now there is a new tension - The Cambodian government has appointed former Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra as an economy adviser and this has made the Thai government hopping mad as they think he is a criminal and a powerful political opponent. Thaksin has been living in exile since 2006 when he was ousted in a military coup. A two-year jail sentence awaits him in Thailand. He arrived in Cambodia on Tuesday.

Cambodians it seems think the appointment is a good idea and the government is refusing to extradite him back to Thailand. This probably because a) the Thais are annoyed thereby increasing the delight of the population and b) most people do not publicly disagree with the ruling party for some reason.... Its reported that Thaskin has been playing golf with Cambodian PM Hun Sen.

Things have escalated though and now Cambodia has ordered the first secretary of the Thai Embassy to leave Phnom Penh, and Thailand have done the same to the Cambodian representative in Thailand (small world but I am fairly confident that I used to teach his grandson...!).

Latest news is that a man has been arrested in Cambodia for allegedly spying for Thailand. Apparently he works for Cambodian Air Traffic Service and has been seeking out the flight details of Thaksin.... Thailand says arresting this guy is intimidation with the intention to defame Thailand. The Thai authorities then stated that they would not allow Thaksin's private jet to fly over Thailand's sky on his way out of Cambodia as he is supposed to be returning to Dubai.

In any event, I'm not sure what the government of one of the most corrupt countries can learn from a criminal on the run(!) Who knows what will happen next. If your booking a flight to Cambodia perhaps avoid Bangkok airport or get some good travel insurance!

Rehab

2009-11-12T20:25:00.004+07:00

I'm missing the beautiful shops (and weather) in Phnom Penh and so thought I would introduce a few of my favourites.

One hidden gem of an UGO shop is Rehab Craft Cambodia (RCC)* - a nonprofit, nongovernmental organization developed to create employment for Cambodians with disabilities. The shop is in BKK - No. 69, Street 315. The shop appears to be a very small inadequately stocked oven of a place. The heat was baking. I went in to it and to say it was warm would be an understatement. However, I did find and want to purchase this beautiful piece of silk [picture to follow].

Now, I went to ask if I could pay for the silk in the workshop area next to the oven/shop and was asked to go upstairs to pay.... upstairs??!! Oh on going up I found a delightfully large, air-conditioned shop full of a range of items. I spent much more time browsing here and added quite a lot to my original purchase. The merchandise is good quality and the range is great - Wooden carvings, kitchen things, bags made of rice bags, silk, cushions, bags, games....

I'd definitely recommend a trip up the stairs! To think I ignored this shop everyday as I motorbiked past it every day on my way to work all because the oven is actually just a large display window (I thought it was odd there were no staff in the oven....or perhaps not given the heat)

http://www.camnet.com.kh/rehabcraft/

More favourites to follow...

*Rehab Craft Cambodia was established in 1995 and pays fair wages. Its workers earn two and one-half to three times the average factory–production wage. It is a is a member of the International Fair Trade Association (IFAT) and of the Artisans’ Association of Cambodia.

Smile - Photo students continue to document their lives in Cambodia

2009-11-08T21:03:00.004+07:00

Following on from the Smile Photography Project I organised during my time in Phnom Penh some of the students at the children's centre are keeping up the excellent work and are continuing to take great photographs. They are now completely fearless about taking pictures which is fantastic and the results are pretty impressive - Here are 6 pictures taken by Sambath and Theara.

Sambath

Theara

The week in pictures...

2009-10-18T14:00:00.018+07:00

I didn't take too many photographs on this trip but here are a few to accompany the posts below... I'm now back in England with a few Cambodian projects in the pipeline here. Just 10 days in the humidity and I had already forgotten how cold it is back here... brrrrrrrr!

First stop, Phnom Penh - view from Blue Lime hotel over to the Royal Palace - Its still the rainy season in PP hence the threatening sky and the flooded roads....

Next Kep Lodge in Kep - seaside town with 4 of the CCH photo journalists

Relaxing in the evening in the bar...I must say they were lethal darts players and even started training the owners 2 year old baby. Ahh I love Cambodian health and safety.
The crab market - one of the best places to eat in Cambodia. Rick Stein(of TV chef fame) recently visited Kep. He went to try lok lak at the poshest place in town. This was a mistake this street has the best food in town. Seafood straight out of the sea and served with Kampot pepper. My favourite is Kimly which can be found at the end of the row.
A walk around the town and a trip to the King's old holiday villa....The family "guarding"/squatting in the deserted and crumbling building now demand $2 per person to get a look. I've been inside before they got the idea of charging the Barangs an entrance fee. The child below demanding the charge did appear to be doing some gardening (before he decided to escort us off the premises and down the road with this 2 dogs that is)

Contemplating the sea view from the crab market

A long relaxing walk to the beach on the seafront rounded off with a snack of a off coconut/rice/fruit mix wrapped in leaves and then cooked [read: burnt]
Monkey watching....

Rain...

Jasmine (I think)....
Next stop Kampot.......
A cycle ride around the countryside and cattle.... Cham boys in a village on the outskirts of Kampot...

Kampot river

Back to the city and shopping - God forbid that you ever enter O'Russei market and dare to go upstairs. Sweating, disorientated, loaded with goods...will you ever find your way out again? I always get lost here. Fantastic market though - Might be my favourite.... The fabric on the east side of the market is amazing and as for the bling Khmer dresses on the first floor....!

The school at the children's centre has opened (the primary children used to go to public school but now the centre has opened their own). Observing a day of lessons....
The girls - S and S - who now seem to be good friends in Second grade. On the right is the beautiful girl I sponsor who is progressing very well.
Second grade classroom
A fun afternoon for 5 of the children from the centre at the water park (OK, Ok I liked the slide too...).
Waiting for the hot dog party to begin - the water park 5 - some modelling clothes donated by my (UK) work friends - present and past.
Let the dancing at the leaving party commence..........

Daaaahling...

2009-10-16T12:29:00.003+07:00

Its a good job that here "Daaaahling"is not a term of affection otherwise over fifty moto men could have been the subject of my attention today! Daahl-ing in khmer means walking or walking for fun/strolling. Cambodian's tend to do this in parks when they have them - (even then the "park" really resembles more of a central reservation (like you get in the middle of large roads in the UK)). The the Daahl-ing is usually done just before dawn or sunset. Today I Daahl-ing-ed from about 9 to midday and not in a park but right across Phnom Penh visiting many of my favourite shops and cafes. A few new haunts had cropped up too over the last six months. I am exhausted from the heat, dust and lack of pavements!

I also Daah-ling-ed to our old house and bumped into a couple of our old moto taxi men who were still hanging about in that area for fares. One of them speaks quite good English so I had a nice chat with him and it was good to see a few familiar faces. Apparently business is not so good because people (expats) in our old flat have their own cars and business has been tough. Quite a crowd of moto men used to gather at the front of our house probably because I took long trips out to the orphanage and paid a good price - resulting in quite a high income for a moto driver. Its a bit sad that they are not being used now but so many expats use the big 4WDs that are paid for by their charity to go from A to B in the city. I would say this is really not needed and the money could be better used a) for the charitable purposes of the organisation and b) using local means of transport provides an income for local people who might otherwise be struggling... I am a big fan of the moto taxi!

This afternoon I am going to the waterpark - I have written about this on my blog before... A health and safety risk/disaster waiting to happen on the edge of town... with 5 children from the children's centre and later a farewell visit with hot dogs at the centre itself.

The visit has gone all too quickly but we will be back soon for more...

Ahhh you got so fat!

2009-10-13T16:15:00.005+07:00

I forgot the weariness of the old Cambodian favourite compliment "ahh you got sooo fat. Do you have baby?" - I now just admit it that yes, "I ate too much..." - It is like saying, in the western world, "daaahrrrrling you've lost so much weight". Basically, in Cambodia, if you are fat (anything over a UK size 8) , you must have money to eat so you are therefore rich. This is a good thing and therefore a compliment!! Funny it doesn't feel that way when they are poking at your beer belly...

Anyway, the last 4 days were spent at Kep seaside town with the 4 children from the children's centre and then 2 days at Kampot, a delightful colonial old town (subject to the comments below that is...)

The trip with the children was good. Mainly the visit revolved around walking around the seaside town and eating all kinds of seafood with the famous Kampot pepper. My favourite place to eat on the seafront in Kep is a restaurant called Kimly. Its right at the end of a row of shed like buildings offering various delicious seafood. Kimly is by far the best and the size of the prawns is amazing!

In Kampot, I was looking forward to staying at Rikitikitavi guesthouse as in the past it had always been fully booked....On arrival they didn't have the booking! Not ideal, but a room was at least available for one night. Cycling around Kampot is great and so with the aid of a bike that only had one gear (the one for cycling up really big hills...and Kampot is flat) a day was spent getting sun burnt and going back to a Cham (Muslim) village near to Kampot where I had been before. This time opposite the mosque in a tiny local cafe I entertained 4 amused village children had a drink of coffee for less than 5p! The teacher of the local school looked on as the English speaker of the village did some impressive translation.

Kampot is my favourite town in Cambodia - It is relaxed and charming. However, it has been somewhat ruined by the Governor of the town allowing a Russian businessman permission to turn a riverfront building into a hideous Khmer club. Imagine a peaceful town with a beautiful river front... an amazing fiery red sunset... the sound of the birds - and then the thump thump of the bad Khmer karaoke/dance track. It is completely out of character for the area. In fact it doesn't seem to be doing anything for the people of Kampot. Tourism along the riverfront is down for the guesthouses there (the noise drives the guests away) and the people who tend to go to the bar are Cambodian children of the age that really shouldn't be drinking and hanging out in bars/clubs. A bad idea in all ways - However, money talks and clearly the Russian has more money to gift to the Governor than the other bar/guesthouse owners....

A place of recommendation along the river front is Jasmine. A wonderful small restaurant run by a Khmer woman and her expat husband (but she is very much in control). Not only is the food delicious she is a wealth of information and opinions on Khmer culture and attitudes. Pop in!!

Now back in Phnom Penh...Its raining hard... I have been gifted a delightful green rain cape (thanks David!) so now I look like a "traditional" motorbike taxi man but at least I am dry. Lovely.

Return....

2009-09-22T01:33:00.004+07:00

There is just over 2 weeks and then I am back in Cambodia for a holiday! Its a long haul flight of about 14 hours but it seems very normal these days... I am busy collecting clothes and toys for the students at the Children's Centre. Let's hope I don't go mad with loads of excess baggage again.... I am really looking forward to some HOT (humid) weather, seeing the childrenand seeing what shade of yellow they chose to paint the central market!!

Summer holidays

2009-08-15T15:43:00.010+07:00

During August the director and 3 children from CCH (the children's centre) came to stay in England. It was a trip mainly organised by a film maker IAnna) who is sponsoring one of the children to attend ISPP one of the best international schools in Phnom Penh but as she was coming over to see her (and think about which English universities she would like to study at) with the director and his son we thought it would be nice if one of the other children came and stayed as well. Ravuth, one of the older students at CCH who works very hard and deserves a holiday, came to stay!

I think it was a bit of a culture shock (as predicted). There was a lot of super noodles being cooked during their holiday! By the end of the trip they were all pretty well travelled and had taken part in activities not usually available when you are living in Phnom Penh - like attending a music festival (WOMAD) horse riding up welsh mountains and viewing dinosaurs at the natural history museum.

My mum has cooked lok lak a few times following her trip to see me in Cambodia and as the Cambodian's were craving "real" food she bravely took it upon herself to cook lok lak for 9. She had done so much preparation - even the obligatory pepper/garlic oil sauce that appears on every Cambodian table. However, the excitement could not be contained in the kitchen as my mum arrived with her prepared marinated meat for this Cambodian curry. 4 Cambodian's then assisted in making the dish even tastier.... With the director frying up the individual portions and the others arranging the necessary lettuce and tomato (one leaf with three slices of tomatao)adding more garlic and pepper and sugar and salt and...well, luckily we had no MSG in the house as this is popular.

We then all enjoyed what turned out to be some of the best Cambodian food I have tasted. I was never a big Cambodian food fan as I found it to lack subtle flavours and thought it was quite tasteless or just loaded with MSG/pepper/salt but this was great! Well done mum and her helpers. It was agreed across the whole table (which I might add included a student from France so the standard expected was high(!)) the lok lak was great.

How many people does it take to cook a lok lak?? ...Lok lak perfection! - Well done mum and helpers!

My step dad entertains the masses

Cambodian's get travel sick just getting onto a bus so we thought a trip on the fair ground might be amusing....

Womad

A first trip on a train ever for these guys was the London Underground - probably not the best example train in the world...

Bowling - I lost shamefully to children who had never been inside a bowling place before!

Culture shock!

2009-07-05T01:35:00.003+07:00

3 students from the CCH children's centre are coming to Bath this month. The flights are now all booked and the visas have been granted! No doubt it will be rather strange for these young people (aged between 14 and 19) to experience the UK - Probably more of a culture shock than the other way around....!

Mekong Swim

2009-05-21T14:22:00.002+07:00

Following the Mekong Swim (see earlier post) Asia Life published an article about my schools swim team - written by the children themselves. Here it is: http://www.asialifeguide.com/Feature/iSWAM-the-Mekong.html

On Apr. 5 many of the Penh’s adult community swam the mighty Mekong River, but four eleven-year-old children from iCAN, who were raising money for the Cambodia’s Dump Children Committee caught the eye. This month we give you Jessica Rendall, ‘Rapid’ Regis Seng, Sarah Wong and Sowon Hak, who truly are the Penh’s next generation.

Jessica (lying)Swimming the Mekong River felt tiring and fun. It was also scary knowing what could possibly happen to me if I wasn’t careful. I felt really, really, really proud of myself for doing something different for a change and pushing myself out of my comfort zone. When I first saw the length I had to swim, I was pretty sure that there was no way I was going to make it across. When I got in the water to warm up, I took another look at the distance and realised that it wasn’t that far at all. During the swim, I was pretty tempted to wave my hand in the air and give up, but I looked at the other side and saw the children from Cambodia’s Dump Children Committee (CDCC) smiling and thought that if I were to give up I would feel guilty, because of all the children I had let down. That gave me an urge to give it all I had and finish what I had started. I was feeling nervous already, when on top of that, the photographer from the AsiaLIFE magazine was there to take pictures of us to feature in their magazine. It was a chance of a lifetime and I had a rainbow of feelings, but I was glad that I did it and will definitely never forget, my Mekong River swim experience. (Jessica swam the Mekong in 17.03)

Rapid (right)I did it!!! It was a massive experience for me to swim across the Mekong River! I can remember going to watch the Mekong River swim last year, when I couldn’t really swim at all, and wondered whether I’d ever be a good enough swimmer to do that. It’s amazing what you can achieve when you put your mind to it. I thought the mighty Mekong River was going to be very deep and cold, but instead the water was warm and kind of refreshing. It didn’t smell really bad either, as I thought it might. But the scariest thing is that you can’t see what’s in the water at all – it was just dark brown! I think that the Mekong River swim is a very challenging thing for people to do because if you swim straight to where you’re heading, the current will push you far away. I was feeling a bit dizzy with my new, and fashionable, swimming cap, but it was all right because when I went into the water I felt soooo much better. When I reached half way about 400m, I felt like I had just swum two lengths of our school swimming pool. I would love to do it again because it was a very challenging experience for me and I thought that I couldn’t reach the end, but fortunately I did it. (Rapid swam the Mekong in 15.43)

Sarah (left) On Sunday, we swam the Mekong River and it was an incredible experience. I felt both excited and nervous. When I saw how long it was I felt a bit nauseous but did it anyway, because I knew it would be a fun thing to try. It was very exhausting and I don’t think I have ever swum so hard and so much in my life! While swimming the river, I wanted to give up because I was completely wiped out, but I urged myself to get to the end. No turning back now! When I finally got up to the bank I felt as if I was going to flop over. But the support of my friends and family made me walk up the muddy steep hill. I feel proud and now I can say: “I’ve swum the Mekong River!’’ C.D.C.C will also get brand new bikes and I feel great that I have helped to make that happen. I feel good about myself that I have achieved something so huge. The amazing feeling I get when someone tells me how proud they are, is when I knew it was definitely worth not giving up! (Sarah swam the Mekong in 18.30)

Sowon (middle)First when I saw how much I needed to swim I was thinking inside my head that it was far and I couldn’t do it. When the race started I was very nervous. After I had swum about half way I thought that it wasn’t too bad after all. I really enjoyed it a lot. Now CDCC are going to have bicycles and I am very proud of myself that I swam the Mekong River. (Sowon swam the Mekong in 15.11)

In total Sarah, Sowon, Jessica and Regis raised US$1,000 for CDCC, which will be matched on behalf of iCAN by its Director, Elain Younn. The grand total of US$2,000 should be enough to buy 50 bicycles and cycle helmets for the children at CDCC.

My Cambodia Top 10!

2009-04-12T12:53:00.005+07:00

Getting involved with the Centre for Children's Happiness and all the fun and fundraising

Meeting and having a private audience with the King of Cambodia to discuss my photography workshops with my students

The whole SMILE photography experience - working with the older children and then opening up their exhibition...

A Jungle trek in Bokor mountain with my Mum followed by a swim at an amazing waterfall

Driving myself around on a moto in Ratanakiri (North Cambodia) and Kep (South Cambodia)

Swimming across the Mekong

Visiting the village of a number of CCH children with them on several occasions

Finding out and getting far too many "Beautiful Shoes"

Dolphin Spotting in Kratie

Nearly getting killed - but surviving!, when our group's small fishing boat was ravished by the ocean in a huge storm near to Rabbit Island in Kep

GOODBYE!

2009-04-07T11:29:00.009+07:00

As I prepare to leave Cambodia in the next 3 hours (agh!) I thought I would reflect upon what I will and will not miss about Cambodia after over a year of living in its Capital Phnom Penh! .... BUT (!) I will see you in September/October for a holiday Cambodia!

Things I will miss

Most of all....the children of CCH who have made it so difficult to leave

The call of “Hellowhatisyourname” and waving to children everywhere

Being stared at with no shame by children and adults alike

Being able to go to a tropical, palm fringed beach in under 4 hours

Frozen Margherita from Friends or Java cafe (the best in town!) Yum!

Spaghetti Carbonara from Gasolina and friends who are there – also the best Carbonara in town!

Fresh Coconut juice

Anchor beer with ice – Beer and ice? You can develop the taste...

Tailor made clothes from threads and handmade shoes from Beautiful shoes – my favourite places to shop here.

Iced coffee made with sweet condensed milk called “my boy”

“Hello Stung Mean......Chey” – This is the Cat call of the tuk tuks who hope that I am going to make the journey to the children’s shelter by tuk tuk rather than motorbike. ..And the fact they like to call it for fun because it’s now become a nickname.

The people calling to sell things on my street – feather dusters, coconuts, ice cream, bread ....

Hot, hot weather

Massive thunderstorms and torrential rain

Cheap transport by motorbike taxi everywhere – Walk?? Why!?

The greeting of “Good Luck to you”

Ecstatic pizza – delicious pizza followed by the owner wishing you “Sweet Dreams”

The friendly faces

Fantastically beautiful sunsets

And of course, .... the washing drying in under half an hour

I will not miss....

The so-called expat “scene” – full of the same people and often like a small village

Sweating every minute of every day

The monks chanting via loudspeaker at 5am or a 5am start wedding with Khmer music in the street

The construction workers who live in the “penthouse” about us who chop herbs very finely on their kitchen floor and the general banging due to constant development works

The heckle of “Moto sir?” [Note to Moto drivers: I am not a sir]

Cambodian Karaoke

Rubbish everywhere

Not being able to walk in the city as the pavements are so blocked

Lexus either running me over or stationary and parked everywhere including on every spare bit of pavement

Lawlessness and corruption

The common explanation of a mere “sorry – cannot”

Itchy mosquito and ant bites

.....Being stared at with no shame

Goodbyes

2009-04-07T10:20:00.007+07:00

On Sunday after the River Swim it was time for the farewell party at CDCC for the children of both CCH and its sister centre CDCC. As well as a "goodbye curry party" from me we were also celebrating Khmer new year which starts this weekend.

Although I was there an hour early the children from CCH had already arrived. The powerpoint was set up and things kicked off by showing a few films that had been made about CCH.

We then moved on the the dancing/speech part of the entertainment. The older children spoke about their experiences on studying at international schools and we were treated to some traditional Cambodian dances: including the coconut dance (one of my favourites).

The thanks followed and then we couldn't resist the urge to use the microphone and talk about my experiences with the students at this fantastic place. Then food and dancing.... Khmer New Year traditionally brings with it the HOT season and to say it was hot would be an understatement - it was boiling!

Only one more visit left to CCH and CDCC before home time in only 5 days time. It is very sad to be leaving Cambodia mainly because of these children who are so inspiring.

The Mekong Swim

2009-04-05T13:36:00.006+07:00

Me emerging happy but ready for a bacon sandwich

I did the Mekong River Swim... More pictures and story to follow when I have recovered!!

Ok, I have now recovered from my swim across the Mekong and have resumed the energy to type!

The event was great fun albeit that the start was early as I had to drag myself out of bed at 6am. Not something that happens very often, especially for exercise. I travelled with the team from School in the minibus and arrived promptly at the swim site at 7:30am. The organisers greeted us with horrified exclamations about how early we were. No, we were just on time, shocking and unexpected in Cambodia. The "non-competitive" race was due to start at 9am and (in true Cambodian fashion) did not actually start until 10am. I was not feeling my best as I have been a bit sick for 3 weeks now (looking forward to some NHS when I get home in a week!) but was unwilling to give up!

The school swim team

Near to 10am the boat, carrying more swimmers, arrived from PP. And then the organisers gave us our information "DO NOT BE A HERO! If you have trouble GET OUT. SOMEONE NEARLY DROWNED and DIED last year. Have you eaten breakfast? [no], have you had a good night's sleep? [errr no, I was being sick], did you drink lots last night [at least I was OK on this one]... YOU WILL DIE"!!! Honestly, it was like being in the army, and having failed 2 out of 3 criteria for a successful swim I was bound to die!

The spectators went off in their boat and the swimmers got ready. Slipping down the muddy bank until all 160 of us were in the murky water. Then after a 10 minute wait we are off ...the water didn't taste too bad just a bit muddy and I didn't see any rubbish or sewage floating past. The kids from school zoomed off and a few of us unprepared teachers gently followed. The swim was longer than we had prepared for and about 3/4 of the way across the current got so fast you could not swim at a slow pace for fear that you would end up in Vietnam or somewhere... After what seemed to be a long time I made it across and up the slippery slope triumphant!!

Getting ready to go and then down the slope

The kids from school were doing the race to buy bikes and helmets for CCH and I swam to help children who are in Prison with their mothers so there were lots of great causes which made the swim very worthwhile.

Some children from CCH who came for a paddle and support their fundraisers

The Phnom Penh Post ran an article on Monday and I was pictured wearing my team swim hat (not a good look) but at least I am smiling!

http://www.phnompenhpost.com/index.php/2009040625206/Life-Style/Tackling-the-mighty-Mekong.html

Me - mid river, taking advantage of a chat with the press boat and the picture that appeared in the paper!

House move

2009-04-04T08:21:00.002+07:00

We move out on Monday so have been packing like mad and trying to weigh my huge bag.

Furniture wise - Have you ever managed to move all the funiture you own in a house plus some extras on a motorbike taxi???!!

I have!

Getting ready to leave

2009-04-04T07:52:00.006+07:00

Early mornings just won't be the same without the crazy mix of sounds in Cambodia. Here is a picture collage of some of the people who pass.

Breakfast stand

Rubbish collction day

One of the many recyclers

Feather duster man

Ice man

Banana man

Snack man

Coconut man

Bread man

Charcoal van

Moto men wait for a fare

Rainbow Lodge

2009-04-01T16:29:00.009+07:00

Oh Magic bus pony bring us safe to our destination!

My journey to Rainbow Lodge, just outside Koh Kong, in the west of Cambodia began with a bad bus experience. We had booked our tickets but upon arrival were told that we had to be "taken" to the place where the bus went. A tuk tuk that was about to fall apart was thrust upon us and off we went to a different part of town. I wasn't sure if I was being taken for a ride (well, literally I was but...) to get an extra couple of dollars from a white face but.... We arrived at the Rith Mony bus station which is possibly the most disorganised of Cambodian bus "departments" where no one had a clue what was going on.

Due to the rip off tuk tuk we were late and so feared the bus had already gone. Bus conductors just laughed sending me shuttling between the three buses that were parked. Eventually, a woman turned up on a moto taxi carrying a big honey covered baked pig on a piece of cardboard. I heard her ask a fellow traveller about the "Koh Kong" bus and from that moment I followed her (and the big pig's) moves. An hour later the bus arrived and with the air con blasting to Arctic temperatures we set off. Khmer Karaoke was obligatory as was a comedy about 2 men getting very "interested" as they watched a woman wash from their hiding place in the bushes.... ummm. Khmer comedy at its best.

The driver was a maniac. It is customary to beep your horn in Cambodia as a warning when you overtake. However, our bus driver just LOVED the horn. To amuse myself I counted how many times on average he used it in 5 minutes - 37 times. 37 TIMES!!!!!! Completely unnecessary and almost caused me to deliver a fatal blow to the back of his head (I was on the seat directly behind him so could have got a good swing). I restrained myself. A nice touch on the bus was the delightful nodding pony on the dashboard which was sure to keep us safe from harm on the treacherous mountain roads. The conductor was very keen to make sure the pony was free from dust and spent some time cleaning it. Shame he couldn't give the same level of attention to making sure the bus operated at a decent standard and shutting up the driver.

Eventually, we arrived at Tatei, the village about 20km from Koh Kong where the boat for Rainbow Lodge picks up its guests. We were escorted onto the small traditional fishing boat with other guests and started to make our way up river. The hideous bus journey was completely worthwhile as the scenery was lush, green and stunning. The river was fringed with palm trees and jungle with a backdrop of mountains. On arrival the journey was further eased by a great welcome and a delicious lunch followed by a lazy lie by the river in hammocks while thinking about what tomorrow's activity could be and watching the slow moving river traffic.

Relaxing in the hammock exotic fruit and the river view

Stunning scenery

The accommodation at Rainbow Lodge was good. 6 individual bungalows with a different colour theme. This was the view from our bed and bathroom! Nice!

For our only full day in Tatei we decided to do a jungle trek to the nearby waterfalls - it sounded like a nice length hike of 2 hours - Just enough in the heat and humidity. It sounded nice until we were told how we should prepare for the leeches... Suddenly I was less enthusiastic but still willing. So, unattractive as I may have looked for the wildlife with my hiking boots, trousers with socks pulled up over the bottom of them, I decided it was preferable to abandon fashion when the alternative was having my blood sucked. Midway into the walk I spotted the first leech that had started to cling on to my sock in the hope it would find flesh. Ugh! disgusting. Many more followed and I was more than glad of the sock/trouser combo.

Our guide was Mr Lei and he showed us many interesting things - Mainly insects, footprints of wildlife and a massive spider. We had been told not to expect to come onto the trek and see elephants and tigers!! - Apparently some tourists were disappointed when they didn't see any (!!!!!).

Jungle trekking with Mr Lei and Sonny, one of the Lodge dogs

Insect life and Jimmy, the Lodge's dog who has possibly the longest dog tongue ever!

After our walk which involved scrambling on and over many fallen trees and bamboo we arrived at the Tatei waterfalls where we were treated to having the many tiered waterfall to ourselves and a couple of other Lodge guests. We swam and wallowed in the water as we waited for the boat to bring our lunch. A feast of a lunch arrived but the clouds got darker and darker and large splats of rain began to fall.... we scrambled to the boat and then the sky opened up and thunder and lightening followed! We got completely drenched. The Lodge dogs who were with us didn't like the rain and pushed their big, wet doggy bodies into the tiny space where the two umbrellas met to get some shelter.

The dogs had their own umbrella for a while...

The view from the room mid-storm

The 4th big bridge built by Thailand despite Cambodian/Thai loathing of each other.

The following day we were back on the bus. We were dropped off by the Lodge boat at this bridge (built by the Thai) and waited for the bus to arrive from Koh Kong. This would be our last authentic Khmer bus ride(!) - It had all the usual things including a lot of body smells (ughhhh!) and a beautiful sign on the toilet door (below).

!!!!

No More!

2009-03-28T16:10:00.002+07:00

I placed my last handmade shoes order today for one final pair of boots. But, having lined them all up I think its probably a good thing I am leaving now!

Ratanakiri travels

2009-03-26T13:41:00.013+07:00

On Saturday we headed off to Ratanakiri in the North East of Cambodia. Ratanakiri is a remote province in Cambodia. It takes 10 hours on the bus to get there (at least) and the road is unsealed.

Wikipedia has this to say:
Ratanakiri is sparsely populated; its 150,000 residents make up just over 1% of the country's total population. Residents generally live in villages of 100 to 300 people. Ratanakiri is among the least developed provinces of Cambodia. Its infrastructure is poor, and the local government is weak. The vast majority of Ratanakiri's population engages in subsistence agriculture. Health indicators in Ratanakiri are extremely poor, with nearly one in four children dying before age five. Education levels are also low; three quarters of the population is illiterate.

Knowing that western delights would soon be almost nil we stocked up on western products at 7am in the morning before boarding the bus. It became clear at the bus station that the bus was actually a small mini bus crowded with Khmers. We got on to cries of delight from the Cambodians “Barang” [Foreigner!]. The Cambodians then proceeded to talk about us for the next 10 hours in Khmer without any shame to the fact that we might be able to understand.

The route would take us through Kratie and Stung Treng before turning off for Banlung the province’s capital city. The journey was ok to begin with due to the lack of Khmer Karaoke which on a normal bus would be played at full volume. But, then the man next to me started to encroach on to my space... and the men behind me didn't realise they had to keep the windows shut for the air con to work and the Cambodians started eating in the confined space with their mouths open and no one appeared to have showered for a while.... and so it went downhill from there.

Our luxury transport- open the bonnet to cool the engine!

Our first stop was a “service station” somewhere in the province of Kampong Cham. The service was typical: small children selling fruit, older people selling fried bugs and toilets that aren’t the best. A rarity at this top were the broaches the children were wearing – Absolutely massive tarantulas. I tried not to show my utmost horror as these creatures crawled over the kids as they pointed it out to me an said "spider". Ugh! Other stops were necessary on the way to stock up on fruit/bugs/rice/toilet. Khmer buses like to stop a lot (say once every hour) and this journey was no exception.

We took an interesting shortcut to Kratie along a road with a fantastic view over the fields and where families were drying out what looked like large wood chips in huge quantites by the side of the road. Bright orange corn cobs seemed to be one of the main crops as many houses had it stacked up. Eventually we hit Kraite, then finally Stung Treng. We then turned onto another unseal led road. The road was amazingly so red with clay and the area remained green and jungle like despite the dry season. The houses were typical Khmer houses on stilts. It felt very isolated - These people were 10 hours away from Phnom Penh but light years away in terms of development.

Stunning sunsets over the jungle

Eventually we made it to Banlung. Just like the wild west - Red and dirty dust billowed from the unsealed roads as large trucks thundered in and out. Everything else very understated and quiet. Thankfully our accommodation was amazing. Yaklom Hill Lodge is pretty much a nature reserve where you stay in amongst the jungle in your own cabin. Fantastic but the sounds of the night were so loud! With the chirruping of the cicada (more like a drill/machine gun sound) combined with the calls of a large lizard sharing our room it wasn't quiet at all!

Against warnings of our insurance/mothers/own minds we hired a moped (I was the driver, naturally, having a driving licence would just be rude in Cambodia) to explore the area. Just outside Banlung there is a very beautiful lake (Yaklom). It was formed by a volcanic eruption almost 4,000 years ago. Its up to 50 metres deep and is 800 metres in diameter and a walking path around it. After the lake we made our way through ethnic minority villages to a waterfall - Kachang Waterfall - Sadly, as it is the dry season the usually large and impressive waterfall was not stunning but did provide a cool shower for me. While I was in the water a group of Cambodian men arrived. I had just enough time to change while they ran off to get their mates to have a look at the barang with hardly any clothes on!

Yaklom Lake and a dusty driver

Zoooom

Ratanakiri has many ethnic groups and we did a day trip on the river to visit a couple of the villages. First we had to get to Von Sai a tiny town with mainly ethnic Chinese people. The difference between the town and a normal Cambodian town was striking - All the shops were well ordered and pretty much as spotless as they could get. Then a boat trip down the river to 3 villages. The first was an ethnic Tampuan tribal village. The guide took us to their interesting cemetery and also I got to try 3 different pots of rice wine. Given that the wine is made from the river water its generally advised that you don't try it but it was too tempting! The Chinese village was spotless with a basketball court and a shed designated to charge the villages batteries. Our boat man's house was at this village - His house had a big satellite dish!

Cashew nuts growing inside their fruits.

Sugar Cane juice maker in the Chinese Village

Monks on the river

The tribal village cemetery. Those with merit have statues and elephant tusks carved out of wood on their grave to help guide them to their next life

This woman had gone against tribe traditions by having a husband but not telling the village or having a traditional ceremony - So, to punish they made this pregnant woman statue for her grave.

The tribal village

Rice wine is kept in jars like this and drunk through the bamboo "straws"

On the way back we decided to upgrade to a private car!!!!! We stopped for a carwash midway. The car was caked in thick red mud from a journey in the rain on the clay roads (!) The bonus were these children who thought me and the camera were absolutely hilarious!!

SOLD!

2009-03-20T07:29:00.005+07:00

Its been a busy week here in Phnom Penh. On Wednesday I finished my second school job and headed straight over to another school to pick up one of the auctioneers ready for the jewellery auction that night... That's right, the kids at CCH were doing the auctioning of the pieces of jewellery and they would be supported by me and the US ambassador on the stage. The jewellery auction was organised my me and a couple of friends and despite having a short lead in time everything was ready on the night.

It was great that the US ambassador could come to the evening. She is an interesting woman with fantastic global connections. It was really nice of her to spend so much time with the 5 CCH auctioneers getting to know them. It was also great of her to warm up the small gathering and kick start the auction so well. Despite large publicity, including a full page in the Phnom Penh Post, the crowd was select but we hoped committed buyers! See: http://www.phnompenhpost.com/index.php/2009031824838/Life-Style/Turning-trash-into-treasure.html)

The children were fantastic at auctioning and getting the crowd to part with their money!

CCH auctioneers, CCH director, Soka with his wife Dany and the US ambassador.

A Khmer artist, "Sata", made some art installations for us to display the jewellery pieces on.... made out of carrier bags to highlight the dump.

One of the CCH students above who was excellent at auctioning the pieces and the art display pieces.

A village in Kandal

2009-03-15T09:12:00.006+07:00

Yesterday we returned to the village where some of the children from CCH come from in Kandal - A province about an hour from Phnom Penh. We took one of my favourite tuk tuk drivers, Dara, who is a good driver and is friendly but his tuk tuk goes about the pace of a snail.

First we headed to CCH to pick up four of the students who were from that area so they could return and see their families. After picking up some sweets for the children and fruit we started the slow journey which involved a road traffic accident where a woman (too fast and on the wrong side of the road) decided to clip the back of our tuk tuk. This sent her flying and sprawling on the floor. In true Cambodian style Dara didn't even flinch and kept driving. We could see her get up and she was OK although perhaps her pride was dented.

Its the dry/hot season no and so the roads are covered in dust which sticks to you and covers you in a grimy film. About an hour and a half later down bumpy roads we arrived at the village covered in filth.

Apparently the children had remembered me from the last time and were looking forward to us arriving. They wanted to practise their English. At first the children were so shy but after a play around with the camera and showing their pictures and getting the pictures out from last time there was no holding them back - "Mister, som tort moi" - [Umm that means Madam(!) please one photo] so there were a lot of pictures to be taken.

We also looked at their English text book and I taught colours in English while they taught me colours in Khmer. A delicious lunch had been prepared, rice, chicken, mango, green beans and pork - it was some of the tastiest traditional Khmer food I have tasted.

Then we went for a walk in the boiling hot rice fields - they were burning off the rice and so in addition to the searing heat of the sun we contended with fires and smoke as well!

Some of the kids took a dip in a muddy puddle and we walked to the village well - about half a kilometer from the village.

Then I got a ride in my first ox cart which was going to the well too! Extremely bumpy... but vulnerable to bumps as we hit a large one and the ox and cart split apart. I decided to get out then.

After observing some huge red ants (yummy apparently) we headed back to the village just as the ice cream man was arriving playing the Lambada (the ice cream man tune here) and got the children ice creams. At 200 riel (about 5p) each it was a bargain as the final sum was about $1.50 to get the whole of village children an ice cream. That said, to a farmer in the village its a lot of money.

One mother of a child from CCH have me flowers to say thank you for bringing the CCH students to see their families and then we waved goodbye and the tuk tuk took us home slowly - we arrived back filthy but thankfully in one piece. This was our first goodbye to people in Cambodia before we leave. Still we will see them in September when we return for a holiday....

Recycable materials for a CCH sculpture

2009-03-12T18:02:00.010+07:00

On Sunday I ran a workshop at CCH to create a sculpture for the forthcoming jewellery auction.

The idea was to create a piece from recyclable goods. The purpose of the sculpture is for people at the auction to donate their spare change towards CCH. 100 riel notes here are worth about 4 cents and so amount just like 1p and 2p coins in the UK.

I've got lots of 100 and 50 riel notes to get rid of and I'm sure many expats have a lot of them hanging around - So, the idea is that they intertwine/weave them into the sculpture. This also highlights how, although we may think of the notes as nothing, children at the dump will work hard for 100 riel (2 aluminium cans = 100 riel).

The kids had a lot of fun weaving, cutting and gluing. Then they got the idea of making clothes from the plastic and bracelets from the wool and had a lot of fun with that too!

A beautiful purple outfit!

A new arrival on the right handside was very enthusiastic despite the fact that she only arrived 2 days ago. She is from a province and had no one to look after her.

Jewellery

2009-03-06T10:53:00.002+07:00

On 18 March I have helped organised a fundraiser for CCH - The children's shelter. Please visit www.jewellery-auction.blogspot.com and please make a bid on one of these FANTASTIC one off pieces of jewellery with semi precious stones.

A weekend away

2009-03-05T15:29:00.004+07:00

Me, the children and the Lions of Shihanoukville

At the weekend we took the ten children from the Smile Project to the beach. It was never going to be easy given how things here are generally run.

We had arranged the driver and the ten children. They had been briefed on what they needed to bring and at what time they need to be ready. Would things run smoothly - unlikely?!

6.45am on Saturday morning we made our way to CDCC (one of the shelters) to pick up the first lot of children. The first battle was to be with the mini bus driver who had unilaterally decided that he would now be bringing us home at 9am on Sunday rather than the 2pm we had originally agreed upon. Apparently it was for a "meeting" in Phnom Penh... Yeah mate, sure thing, a meeting of minibus drivers, in Cambodia....on a Sunday- These conventions must happen all the time. OK enough sarcasm - More like he had a second job on!

After negotiating a deal (price reduction to come back at 9am) we were on our way to CCH to pick up the remaining children. Surprisingly they were ready and even one of the children who had told us he couldn't come (5 minutes before we were due to depart) suddenly was available. We also had a Khmer teacher come with us which was a bit of a surprise but she was lovely and it was good to have an adult who spoke Khmer!!

We left shortly after the driver had loaded his various "jobs on the side"into the minibus. We were carrying an assortment of vehicle spare parts which we annoyingly dropped off on the way at various points. About 4-5 hours later we made it to Sihanoukville and the beach.

The children wanted to stop and pray for a safe journey at this half way point full of pagodas

We were staying in Youth Hostel style accommodation at the Don Bosco Youth House. Don Bosco is a Catholic set up that trains young people in the hospitality industry. They have training hotels and our accommodation was annexed to the hotel. Separate dormitories for boys and girls (of course). The rooms were just boxes with thin mattresses on the floor. They were OK but I was glad I had got a silk sleeping bag with me though as the other option was just a blanket put directly on to the mattress....

Then we went to the market to get a supply of food to eat at the beach. The older children and I went with the teacher into the market whilst the boys got drinks. Our mission was to buy prawns, and lots of them.

The market in Sihanoukville is surprisingly clean (must be the concrete floor) and all of the fish stalls were great. The prawns can be huge and I saw some amazing pieces of what I think were tuna. However, it quickly became clear that none of us knew how to tell a fresh prawn... I took the executive decision that "the whiter/clearer it was the better" for an uncooked one at least(!) and we proceeded on that basis. We wandered around looking and then chose a stall where the price was good enough, the prawns big enough and the owner friendly enough. 1kg of fresh prawns was about $7. We got a couple of kilos and then had to find a place to cook them....

The cooking stall

One of the children told me that a small child (wearing a school uniform) had just offered to cook them for us.... I was surprised - he seemed young to be cooking but then someone explained that he meant his Mum would do it (phew!).

His Mum had a stall with the sole purpose of cooking people's purchases. We discussed what vegetables would go with the prawns and got some samphire for about a $1 and some fresh pepper for $0.50. The Mum then cooked it all up. Yum!

Meanwhile, one of the older girls and I went to buy cooked rice ($5 for 13 huge portions) and Cambodian fruit. The whole thing must have taken about 40 minutes so the people left in the minibus were baking by the time we got back. Hungry we all headed to the beach to feast on prawns before swimming - all of this for 13 people cost about $23.

Swimming of course took place fully clothed.

We managed to get all of the kids on to the banana boat. The H&S is non existent here so it did not matter that when we were ready to go on the boat rain was pelting, visibility virtually nil and thunder could be heard... It all added to the experience! I was genuinely scared due to risk of lightening.

You will see that I was then buried and made into a mermaid...

I am laughing but there is sand in my contact lens and I can't breathe due to compacted sand..!

We decided to take the kids to eat pizza for dinner as this is what they said they wanted to try (....most of them ate rice in the end at the pizza place!).

We got into the van to leave the hostel for dinner with our driver and realised there was a random bloke inside hiding from the guards. I wasn't surprised - these things happen in Cambodia! Turned out he was a friend of the driver escaping from the training hotel so he could go and drink beer with him.... Good job we had decided on a tuk tuk to bring us back.

The children loved the night walk we did on the beach - for some it was the first walk "for fun and in nice surroundings" they had done since arriving at the shelter - Walking is not much of an option in PP. Worryingly, some grains of sand glowed in the dark though - I am not aware of nuclear activity in Cambodia but still....

After a rough nights sleep, one child kept kicking me in her sleep and the floor was hard, the kids got up after a lazy start. Usually they are up at 4am and this was their inital plan. However, I was luckily and they slept in until 6am~and were immediately ready for the beach! After a Khmer breakfast of noodles and unidentifiable parts of pig we hit a different beach before heading home.

The driver was insistent we left at 8.30am but we held our ground. This, on reflection, was a mistake because he then drove like a bat out of hell until we changed drivers about an hour later. I thought I was going to die. Speaking of which I now know there is only 1 morgue in Cambodia with only 3 fridges which they turn off at night. Nice.

Apparently it is only necessary to stop at the line of pagodas on the way to Sihanoukville - I think it may have been more useful on the return journey. However, we lived and arrived back in PP with half an hour to spare before the "meeting".

The second beach - Otres

A new venture

2009-02-26T08:23:00.004+07:00

Leaving Cambodia in April is going to be extremely difficult. We have adapted to life quite well here and most of the time have relished the experience. However, our links with Cambodia will not be broken - far from it. In fact we now have a new charity(!) that we have set up. We are currently doing research on the situation of children who live in prisons in Cambodia. The aim will be to establish a project that will provide these children with a safe and clean environment in which to live, free from violence, with access to education and to medical/social care. The project will be run by Cambodians but managed from the UK.

If you are a Facebook user you can join our group:

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=51538083862&ref=nf

Kampot break

2009-02-20T15:13:00.007+07:00

This week I had a break from school (half term) and so went back to one of my favourite places to visit in Cambodia - Kampot.

Kampot is a beautiful small town with lots of character and lovely old colonial buildings. My first impression of Kampot, nearly a year ago left me unimpressed but the charm of the town has grown on me and now I think it is great!

The old bridge in Kampot was bombed and so what remains is 3 different bridges all put together.

It rained! - The first rain since the end of the wet season sometime in October

The main reason to go was to try (again) to get up Bokor Mountain. Bokor is a National Park with a deserted old hill station built by the French including ruins of a casino and a church. A large chunk of Bokor has however been sold to a developer and for a while access has been refused to tourists.

Last time I visited Kampot it was still possible to walk up but as it was a two day hike I didn't fancy it... This time I was prepared to hike but now the developer's security guards have stopped people even walking up to visit the ruins. No doubt when its open again it will have turned into a tacky resort rather than an "abandoned hill station".

So, with Bokor being impossible the alternatives were lazing about with a book, cycling through the nearby villages and a sunset river cruise.

The cycling was great. The sun however was scorching. I have forgotten how fierce the Cambodian sun can be because its the start of the hot season again and also because when I'm in Phnom Penh you are never outside for a long period of time.

The roads were not too dusty thanks to the strange rain but it was hot and rough in parts.

Over 2 days we cycled over rocky roads and into Muslim Communities (known as Cham in Khmer). "Hellohowareyouwhatisyourname!" was called at least every 10 metres by kids and adults alike. Most Cambodians in the rural areas do not know what this even means so (in true teacher format) I try to throw back the answer in Khmer hoping they might start to understand what they are saying! After 3 hours this gets a little waring though.

One group of kids were particularly amusing though. About 10 children returning from school screamed in joy when they saw foreigners. I spoke to them in broken Khmer and they looked at me as though I was an alien - to the extent that I wondered whether they spoke Khmer at all! Eventually there was a break through and then my camera was an object of delight for them.

Tort Roop? [photograph?]

We then came to the end of the road. The trucks carrying stone up to the new resort came thundering past over a bridge that looked like it might break any moment. Rocks perched high on the trucks looked like they could just plop off any second and flatten anyone nearby. Returning the way we came we came back to the school kids again who ran with the bikes holding hands (try cycling with 10 kids all wanting to grab you).

A welcome drink at this oddly placed roadside stall with the trucks hurtling past - The driver was very busy staring at the white people but he managed to keep it on the road

Later the cruise up the river, through the fishing village to the ocean. In order to get onto the boat we had to climb down a make shift ladder (a piece of wood with a few nails) onto the boat (ominously partially filled with water) Our driver then nearly caused us to crash into a moored police boat - never a good idea. He did not appear to understand the dynamics of a rudder.

My confidence was not increased by the fact that 5 minutes into the journey he let out a sound that "said" - "ohhh - how could I have been so foolish as to forget to put on my helmet!"... and then he picked up his motorcycle helmet and put it on - Yes, he put it on, without a hint that it was more than a little odd, even though we were on a boat in the middle of a river. Ummmm - After so long here you do just generally stop asking yourself the question "why?" when you see something strange but sometimes you just can't help but wonder!!

Anyway, the fishing village was interesting and we went out to a sand bank in the ocean and had a paddle before returning for sundowners.

Now where did I put my helmet?

Fisherfolk

Our boat with Bokor in the distance

People watching

2009-02-16T17:37:00.004+07:00

There is never a dull moment from our balcony.... I'll miss people watching when we return to the UK.

Balloon sellers

Delivery by Cyclo

Food sellers, plastic wares sellers, balloon sellers, school buses and unhatched ducking snack sellers (a popular snack..), the local shop - all at the same time. Other sellers include: bread man, CD man, feather duster man, coconut man...

Changing of the guards at our flat (about 6am) - The man on the bike has just finished the night shift

And the (almost) ever present moto men - There are 4 main guys.

Its started to heat up properly here and temperatures are now about 30 degrees. The hot season isn't supposed to start until March but it is so sticky and hot already. This week is half term at my new school so tomorrow the plan is to head out of town and escape the dust and heat. I'm looking forward to a holiday - afterall its been about 3 weeks since the last!

Valentine's Day hits Cambodia

2009-02-14T12:07:00.008+07:00

In Phnom Penh street side stalls quickly appear from no where to cater for the "must have" of the day/week/month etc.

For example, when the police started to fine people for not wearing helmets many stall owners started to sell helmets and made a tidy profit as (nearly) everyone rushed to buy one. Some might think Valentine's day is a day of romance etc but here it seems to be the day to make a quick buck. On most streets there is a rose seller or two (...or ten) encouraging young Khmers to buy one for their sweethearts.

A large Khmer nightclub, called Rock, is also having a Valentine's special. You can take your date to the "night" club between 1pm and 6pm this afternoon and get two free soft drinks!!

Roses for sale by the side of one of the main roads

Prey Sar Prison

2009-02-10T17:12:00.005+07:00

At the weekend we took a visit to the Phnom Penh prison. The prison is not too far from the Killing Fields on the edge of town. It is a "model" prison because lots of NGOs come to monitor it. There is a women's, men's and youth prison. Even though it is a "role model" prison it doesn't mirror a western prison at all.

On the way

We were lucky to go because of a University Project which is presently helping the youth offenders recognise the importance of law and their rights. The Project is very impressive. It is run by students at a Cambodian University - This in itself is great to see as so much is done by international NGOs which could be done by Cambodians themselves. The Project was very professional and the ideas that they are running and the way they are running the workshops are excellent. They have about 60 children attend so the class is BIG! Last weekend they were studying the rights of the child.

The gates of the prison

You can read more about the Project here http://groups.google.com/group/soc.culture.cambodia/browse_thread/thread/6e332b19c0dc1a92

We then met with the prison director to discuss our ideas for the prison. I'll put more about this later when things are better established...

Sponsor me to swim like a Dolphin!!!

2009-02-06T19:42:00.004+07:00

OK, so those of you who know me are aware I have not done any form of "real" exercise since leaving compulsory education (and compulsory PE) over 10 years ago. So - It is with complete madness that I shall be swimming across the Mekong river in April.

Here are some facts about the Mekong River:

It is the 12th-longest river in the world
It is the 7th longest in Asia
Its estimated length is 4,350 km (2,703 mi) [to be fair I did say I was swimming across it not up it]
The extreme seasonal variations in flow and the presence of rapids and waterfalls have made navigation extremely difficult.
More than 1,200 species of fish have been identified and there could be possibly as many as 1,700. The fish there are BIG... in fact...
No other river is home to so many species of very large fish - The giant Mekong Catfish is one of them (below). And if that's not enough...
A rare type of crocodile lives in it

I have never understood why anyone would want to train for anything that involves exercise before but now I am in "training". The reason is simple. I do not wish to drown.

Please also remember that I am extremely petrified of "creatures I cannot see in the water".

Another incentive would be for me to raise money for Cambodian Children's Projects. So if you would like to SPONSOR me (please!!!!) to swim like a dolphin rather than a beached whale please drop me an email or leave a comment below.

See they are REALLY BIG

The working week!

2009-02-06T19:01:00.004+07:00

This week was my first working week at my new school.

The school is one of the larger international schools and I am enjoying teaching in a large primary school - run very much like a UK primary school and with a similar atmosphere. My days consist of teaching English as an Additional Language (EAL) to different groups of children who need extra practice and help with English (all lessons in the school are in English). The lessons are only half an hour long which means there is never a slow moment!

Half of my new classroom

This weekend we are going to a women's prison to accompany some university students and look at the conditions of the women and their children. I am looking forward to seeing the "facilities" they have first hand.

This week I made another appearance in a PP publication "Asia Life". Asia Life is basically a monthly expat magazine that everyone (expat) reads but runs practically the same articles over and over. Its a bit irritating as sometimes it it highlights how shallow expat life can be - Its particularly annoying that you see the same people in it again and again. This is mainly because some of the photos are set up e.g friends of the photographer and secondly because there is a limited pool of people to be photographed at the limited expat events they cover!

Well this month it was me gracing its "social" pages - with my Martini in hand (of course). The event was the opening of a new club in the grounds of Gasolina - a favourite place of mine in PP's NGO-land: Bong Keng Kong. It seems like a good idea for a new bar particularly as Elsewhere - a bar which is an "institution" for some expats is closing shortly. It supposedly has legendary monthly Friday parties. I say legendary because I have never been...Tonight is the last one so....

Please note the US president shares the page with me - ha ha!!

Oh finally, on an amusing note - I've discovered Korea has a World Toilet Association (WTA) - They are claiming to be building what is said to be PP's "pilot" public toilet. However, this is simply not the case (!) there is a public urinal just by the National Museum - I think built in 1937 (so French...).

The building despite only having a partially formed brick wall is probably already in full use - Other facilities are simply not needed. The general approach by moto drivers and the like is to just go on any old wall that is available. The WTA can therefore claim that the "pilot" project is a success even if people will not go inside to use it!!!

Australian and New Zealand Photos

2009-02-01T18:23:00.000+07:00

I took a few photos in Australia and New Zealand - They are here if you are interested. http://michelles-not-in-cambodia.blogspot.com/

Roadshow - CCH

2009-02-01T13:40:00.007+07:00

Today I went with CCH to one of their roadshows. I have not been to one before because they involve getting up at 6am on a Saturday or Sunday. However, this weekend I managed!

We travelled from CCH in the truck that would later turn into the stage for the roadshow. At the roadshow the children from CCH teach vulnerable groups about child rights, HIV, domestic violence, drugs, trafficking - It is very worthwhile.

The village that we went to was one of the villages set up to cater for people who have been forceably evicted. By chance the people in this area came from the Dey Krahorm area I mentioned in my earlier post a few days ago.

The final people from this district were evicted this week but some have moved to this area provided by the company who evicted them/the governement about 3 years go. On arrival you can tell it is a village that is the result of an eviction.

The "houses" are all in ordered plots and it has a very temporary feel to it. It is also generally in the middle of nowhere - no water and no electricity. The people are extremely poor. There are no jobs in the middle of nowhere.

At the Roadshow first there is a traditional dance, followed by a role play to educate the audience in an entertaining way, some audience participation and then reading, drawing and oragami. All the CCH children knew what they were doing and soon after we arrived the entertainment for the people of the village was underway. There was well over 100 kids together with mums, dads, grannies etc.

The CCH roadshow is very pracical in the advice that it gives and it talks about very real dangers that these people face. It is extremely worthwhile and the children from CCH appear to enjoy giving something back to the type of communities that they came from. One of the young people from CCH told me how sometimes there is only a small audience on Sundays because if a church visits they go to that event instead because there is food available at the end. This highlighted to me even more the way in which these people are very vunerable not just in terms of HIV/drugs etc but also in terms of the information that they can be subjected to...because they are so poverty stricken they can be manipulated to attend events contrary to their own religious beliefs so that they get food - they then miss out on information that may save their lives. I hope that the church groups are doing something more constructive than just teaching about Jesus because in Cambodia, quite frankly, this is just not enough to get you through.

Here are a few of the pictures I took... there are a few!

Oragami folding lesson

Happy children after the roadshow - The discovered the camera and could not get enough pictures!

Drawing class in progress - the house in the background must belong to some one "important" as none of the other houses were anything like this one - People were living in shacks made of thatching and iron.

Children of all ages learn about corrpution!

Listening carefully to the education via comedy role play!

It was funny! (and also in Khmer so I am guessing by the laughs)

He's only 11 but playing the part in the role play of a man who has slept around and so caused his wife to catch HIV. Heavy but important issues.

Hands up if you know.... The participants got a note book and pencil

CCH kids Apsara Dancing

The village

Eviction - Dey Krahorm

2009-01-29T17:00:00.008+07:00

Yesterday we went to Meta House with 3 of the young people from CCH – It was supposed to be an evening for “Khmer Kids” – the idea being that NGOs dealing with kids would show documentaries and get together... An eviction of residents living not too far from our house (Dey Krahorm) instead took precedence as the topic for the evening. I had been to the eviction site with the children from the Smile Photography project when I took them there to take pictures. Here are some of my pictures from the district. These people's homes and businesses are now flattened.

It was a good documentary and the young people from the evicted district spoke in a very moving way about their experiences. It was interesting to hear about the eviction which has made front page news in the English newspapers here but not the Khmer ones (but this is not surprising).

The eviction is the result of a company called 7NG who has effectively been given land by the government and then who has then evicted the residents with force (a kind of “compulsory purchase order” but without the “purchase” bit and without any form of reasonableness!). Although the dispute has been going on for years it is reported that people were only given hours to get their things together before they were physically forced out and their homes bulldozed. Last night we were told how 500 men supported by police forced the residents to leave and immediately destroyed the area. We were told how one women begged to stay as her husband was sick and could not move but she was arrested, handcuffed and beaten.

I understand that people who own 7NG have government links/are in the government but that is how things tend to work around here. Someone suggested a petition as a way to help. Nice sentiment but these people are the type of people who beat and drag old ladies from their homes they are not the type who care about the “force” of petitions! I’m not sure I’d write my address next to my name if I signed one either otherwise I may not have such a happy time here.

Sadly, this is a typical news story here - people being evicted without regard for their human rights as land prices are so valuable and those in charge are capable of exploiting their position over the poverty stricken and the vulnerable to make a quick buck. They talk of "tidying the town" on the basis it was a shanty town but it was not. It had houses and businesses with some people living there having called it their home for decades.

You can read more on the eviction of the residents here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7848634.stm

Welcome back!

2009-01-27T18:04:00.002+07:00

I've gone back to my old job for 4 days this week as a subsitute teacher for my old class. They are behaving (just) and on Monday I arrived to 2 really sweet banners hanging in the classroom.

Today I taught them about Aboriginal Art and some basic Australian history. We proceeded to make dreamtime art .... ummmm not sure how they will turn out but so far....(below)!

On Friday I am starting a new job at another international school. This time EAL teaching "English as an Additional Language". It will be completely different to Third Grade but it will be good to experience another school. I'm booked in to cover a staff shortage for 6 weeks. Once that is over there will just be a month to explore more Cambodia before returning home to the UK. I am really looking forward to seeing everyone but not looking forward to many other things!

Market, swim, dance

2009-01-26T16:25:00.006+07:00

Everything here takes 4 times longer than you would generally allow for normally some simple jobs took a day! .... Such as the printing of photos from the Smile exhibition. My task was easy - get the pictures printed and locate some plastic wallets to put them in for sale in the gallery. Sadly the first batch of printing that was done for me was useless so I had to go back to the print shop (which I loathe) and explain the pictures were "under-exposed" to a woman who didn't speak English!!

I then toured the hot, sweaty, over crowded central market for an hour looking for the little plastic wallets. A woman (selling dried fish) at one point asked me what I was looking for (clearly 45 minutes in I was looking a little distressed!) after me miming [a mime for plastic bag is difficult] she pointed in a general direction told me to: "go -go-round"... My faith that the plastic things I was looking for existed was renewed and some 15 minutes later there they were (!!!) - hidden in amongst the craziness of Chinese New Year decorations and more dried fish.

At the weekend we took Sina (from the children's shelter) and her 2 best mates (Srey Leak and Menea) to the water park. I had been there once before. Its not all that bad - think Western-S- Mare and that sea front park with the big pineapple c.1990 - The children enjoyed it though and it was followed by a trip to the largest mall in Phnom Penh, Sovanna, for a burger and fries.

We also took 4 older children from the Shelter to see a dance performance which was the result of a Senegalese woman tutoring 30 Cambodian dancers over the course of a week. This was a great event - The young dancers had been trained in modern African dance technique and then had incorporated their own styles: hip hop, apsara... They came from a variety of backgrounds circus, theatre, classical dance. It was full of energy and the venue was heaving. Far too many expats for my liking but that is to be expected if the action is taking place in an expat garden/bar. There were a few Cambodians watching though including an old woman who had had quite a lot to drink and was announcing very loudly over and over "I want to dance like that" (translation provided by the children!). At that moment the dancers were performing some fairly sexual dance moves...!

Me and Penny one of the children's carers and one of the newer children at CCH - 5 years old.

Phnom Penh Post Office

2009-01-22T09:21:00.006+07:00

Visiting the main Post Office here in Phnom Penh is always an amusing experience.

First there are many counters to choose from - Letter, registered letter, registered packet, packet etc etc. There is never a queue of any kind [because no one uses the post for the reasons I am about to explain]. At the right counter you will be ignored by the two women behind it who are "busy" sorting their pencils or similar. When you have their attention they will proceed to "weigh" your letter/packet in a place where you cannot see the weight for yourself.

They will then randomly pick a charge for the packet. You may manage to work out the cost yourself from a faded list they have stuck to the glass and manage to have a conversation about why they have asked for 12,000 Riel when the table says it should onlybe 8,000 Riel. If you are lucky they will shrug and reduce the price. Otherwise, they may just stare blankly (or still shrug) and you are stuck with the random price.

Next challenge... you get the stamps... or do you? Often the (now helpful) clerk will state that they will now deal with the stamping and posting of your packet. Bad idea to accept this. The idea is that if you do not see the stamps being stuck on your packet then your letter will be binned/the contents of the parcel treated as a gift and the money not put in the Post Office till.

So you have got the thing "weighed", you have paid the "fee", they have stuck on the stamps.... Next challenge, get the stamps franked (they have to be franked before you put it in the post box). This is where lots of had actions and drama is necessary to get the job done.

Once you have the letter in your hand fully stamped and franked all that is left is the post box which is far less of a challenge (unless you are using the Post Office on Sihanouk Bvd where the slot is practicially narrower than a letter and looks like it hasn't been opened to collect the mail for a century). You can then inform the person (by email) the packet is on its way - only to be told 3 months later by them that it never arrived.

So the idea I had to post a good book to a friend at home was never a good one. The charge was incomprehensible to me - so I failed at the first hurdle. I was out-numbered. 2 clerks against 1 foreigner. The cost was $13 (more than the book itself)! Having been ripped off (I think) at this stage I was determined to get my stamps. This is when I was greeted by the ever present phrase uttered here ... "sorry cannot". "Sorry cannot"..... aghhhhhhhhh!!! I had paid my money I was trapped. "Sorry cannot" does not usually follow with an explaination here. However, "Late. [it was 5.30pm] Machine off. I will do" - ummmm. Perhaps being British I couldn't bring myself to challenge this explaination and accuse the women of conspiracy to de-fraud me of my stamps. I just said "please - do it tomorrow".

I had no hope of the packet ever reaching the UK. $13 that would be more than a week's salary so the temptation too much.... On the upside when I went outside the PO I saw a whole family of monkeys - including tiny baby ones...walking across the main electric cables!

But monkeys were not the purpose of the trip and so I sadly emailed my friend apologising for my lack of conviction in the Post Office to get the stamps stuck and cursed my wasted $13 (equaling 13 beers in happy hour). Then behold!!!!!!! Today, about ten days later, the packet arrived! Oh sweet JOY! and faith in the Cambodian postal system restored!!!! On reflection it was a book (Cambodian's don't generally read let alone read English novels) and I bet the stamps were far stuck on were far less than $13....

Back to school

2009-01-21T09:23:00.005+07:00

This week I returned to 3rd grade to see my old school children...They had all grown, had haircuts etc! They asked a lot of questions about my holiday. No doubt there will be many more because I am teaching them for 3 days next week!

Other than that time has been taken up meeting friends and catching up and trying to sort out odds and ends relating to the Smile Photography Project. Selected prints of the pictures are also now going to go in the John McDermott Gallery in Siem Reap (http://www.asiaphotos.net/) which is great because he is a renowned photographer who focuses on Angkor Wat and surrounds. I'm also going to try and sort that out today which fills me with dread as a trip to the print shop is less than enjoyable due to the general service and staring by staff and other customers!

Later this week we are going to celebrate the inauguration of Obama with the Democrats Abroad who have been working hard here making sure the Americans here have registered to vote. Fingers crossed that change is now coming now we have waved goodbye to Bush!

Coming home!

2009-01-17T17:08:00.002+07:00

Its not ideal to get up at 6.30am on Saturday and Sunday to teach biology and English to a group of year 7 to year 11 children but that entertained me this weekend! Also I have been planning various trips around Cambodia to fill the last 3 months of our time here. Sadly we have booked our flights to come home in April... still there is lots to see and we will be spending time travelling and seeing the children at CCH. Ummm, now how many pairs of shoes can I get made in 3 months? - Now taking bets.
More soon...